Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive recently (today) installed a twinplate clutch, now it grabs beautifuly but is it normal that there isnt much room to play with to find the friction point and take of slowly?

also is there away i can re-adjust the pedal, at the moment its grabbing right at the top, its been like that with all the clutches ive had in the box. it hasnt botherd me, but now with the twin plate and not much room to play, its kinda hard to pull up slowly when youre already at the top. if you get what i mean lol..

any input would be good, thanks!

ive recently (today) installed a twinplate clutch, now it grabs beautifuly but is it normal that there isnt much room to play with to find the friction point and take of slowly?

also is there away i can re-adjust the pedal, at the moment its grabbing right at the top, its been like that with all the clutches ive had in the box. it hasnt botherd me, but now with the twin plate and not much room to play, its kinda hard to pull up slowly when youre already at the top. if you get what i mean lol..

any input would be good, thanks!

Yes its normal for the take up to be very short . You can ajust the rod length inside the car to vary the pick up point.

You can install a bigger slave ( Nismo have one ) so your clutch pedal will be lighter and the take up will feel better too but its never going to feel like a stock clutch.

Its easy to find and ajust . The shaft is attached to the pedal and you have to unlock ( undo) the 12 mm nut then turn the shaft clockwise ( as you are looking at it ) to shorten the shaft , that will bring the take up point lower to the floor . All you need is 2 spanners, a 12 mm open ender and maybe a 7 mm ( i cant remember this for sure ) .Dont forget a few turns will make a lot of difference.

I'm sure its been covered before do a search and you will find a pic somewhere, if you have any problems let me know and i'll take a pic for you .

If a workshop put the clutch in for you take it back to them and tell them to ajust the pedal for you .

  • 2 months later...
thanks heaps for this, wrxhoon. my twin plate clutch comes on real sudden so your post will really help me out. cheers.

Use a bigger slave, the slave will travel less when pushing the clutch pedal so it will feel like your take up is not as sudden and as a bonus you will have a lighter pedal but dont expect it to be like a stock clutch ..

while your comparing twin plates,

do you have clutch plates with springs or are they solid centre.

a twin plate with twin sprung plates is quite drivable

a twin plate with solid centre plates, is still drivable, but takes some, OK A LOT OF FINESSE!!

Solid centres are either in or out & hardly anything in between

Nismo will fit , you can buy it in Japan for about 13,000 yen from memory but you can probably get one from Nissan here .

Edited by wrxhoon

oh ta wrxhoon, that's great. i'll check on it tomorrow.

yes mumbo i'm talking about the friction point - but the other thing is that there's no gradient of pressure, so at one point there's nothing and the next centimetre it's on full. i also have no experience using it! :)

Are you talking about the friction point of the clutch? my os giken twin is around half way but i'd say its been worn a bit..

If you go to post 6, you can see how you can adjust the take up point .

while your comparing twin plates,

do you have clutch plates with springs or are they solid centre.

a twin plate with twin sprung plates is quite drivable

a twin plate with solid centre plates, is still drivable, but takes some, OK A LOT OF FINESSE!!

Solid centres are either in or out & hardly anything in between

my solid centre twin plate from direct clutch is bloody good to drive and take offs from low low rpm are really smooth and it never feels jerky at all. i can even ride it like a stock clutch on hill starts etc without any trouble.

though it rattles like crazy and is hard as a rock to press, but u get the good with the bad i suppose ;)

my solid centre twin plate from direct clutch is bloody good to drive and take offs from low low rpm are really smooth and it never feels jerky at all. i can even ride it like a stock clutch on hill starts etc without any trouble.

though it rattles like crazy and is hard as a rock to press, but u get the good with the bad i suppose :O

Cool, maybe mines still bedding in, wasn't in long before i blew up my gearbox, one too many hard hitting shifts, so looks like there's hope for me yet :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
    • Motor and body mockup. Wheel fitment and ride height not set. Last pic shows front ride height after modifying the front uprights to make a 1.25" drop spindle.
×
×
  • Create New...