Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Thermostat


Recommended Posts

Guy's follow the bottom radiator hose up to where it joins the motor,,,thats the stat cover,,,3 bolts from memory.

The stat is the same as a VL 3.0L,,,Nissan Part No is 21200-42L05 and it fits all R33's.

Neil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-195749
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

ok guys, there are a few things to know here:

firstly for the money and time saving just get a genuine nissan one from nissan parts. they are around $50-60.

second, if you want a 'tridon' one...the part number is TT268-170. this is the 77deg one. there is an 85 deg one...dont get this!

lastly if you want to waste money, get the nismo one but these are over $100 if not closer to $150 and open at 67 or so deg.

you will also need gasket goo for this as there is not a norml gasket there. i use the blue stuff...works perfect!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-4606827
Share on other sites

bellow i attached instructions from the RB engine manual.

view order 3 then 1 then 2. (sorry i didnt rename)

as the above people have said use either the tridon or stnd nissan one.

tridon will set you back about $28 and its one of the good cheapies.

make sure the jiggle pin is pointing to the top of the motor.

for gasket sealent i recomend a product from loctight.

Its a silicone based gasket goo, its loctight blue something or other.

It's the ducks nuts, will come in handy down the track to.

let us know how you go.

post-55273-1242824646_thumb.jpg

post-55273-1242824666_thumb.jpg

post-55273-1242824704_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-4606908
Share on other sites

was reading a thread recently and a workshop operator said he'd been through a bunch of tridon thermostats that were crap, and caused problems.

just use the nissan one. also there is no reason to use a lower temperature it will NOT help you, it just means your car won't get up to temp and you'll lose fuel efficiency.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-4608777
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

hi guys on my r33 gtst 1993 it has a braided cable that runs down threw the chassis and comes out next to the exhaust, and theres something that attaches to that which im not sure what it is or where to get another one because i scraped going over a speed hump and its pulled it out and stuffed it and i think its shorting out, my thermostat light is staying on and check engine also comes on itermitently. Any help on where i can get another one of these, and or what it is would be good cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-6110663
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
hi guys on my r33 gtst 1993 it has a braided cable that runs down threw the chassis and comes out next to the exhaust, and theres something that attaches to that which im not sure what it is or where to get another one because i scraped going over a speed hump and its pulled it out and stuffed it and i think its shorting out, my thermostat light is staying on and check engine also comes on itermitently. Any help on where i can get another one of these, and or what it is would be good cheers

Disconnect it, it's useless. Pull out your passenger seat and delete that sensor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-7274366
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...