Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Thermostat


Recommended Posts

Guy's follow the bottom radiator hose up to where it joins the motor,,,thats the stat cover,,,3 bolts from memory.

The stat is the same as a VL 3.0L,,,Nissan Part No is 21200-42L05 and it fits all R33's.

Neil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-195749
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

ok guys, there are a few things to know here:

firstly for the money and time saving just get a genuine nissan one from nissan parts. they are around $50-60.

second, if you want a 'tridon' one...the part number is TT268-170. this is the 77deg one. there is an 85 deg one...dont get this!

lastly if you want to waste money, get the nismo one but these are over $100 if not closer to $150 and open at 67 or so deg.

you will also need gasket goo for this as there is not a norml gasket there. i use the blue stuff...works perfect!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-4606827
Share on other sites

bellow i attached instructions from the RB engine manual.

view order 3 then 1 then 2. (sorry i didnt rename)

as the above people have said use either the tridon or stnd nissan one.

tridon will set you back about $28 and its one of the good cheapies.

make sure the jiggle pin is pointing to the top of the motor.

for gasket sealent i recomend a product from loctight.

Its a silicone based gasket goo, its loctight blue something or other.

It's the ducks nuts, will come in handy down the track to.

let us know how you go.

post-55273-1242824646_thumb.jpg

post-55273-1242824666_thumb.jpg

post-55273-1242824704_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-4606908
Share on other sites

was reading a thread recently and a workshop operator said he'd been through a bunch of tridon thermostats that were crap, and caused problems.

just use the nissan one. also there is no reason to use a lower temperature it will NOT help you, it just means your car won't get up to temp and you'll lose fuel efficiency.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-4608777
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

hi guys on my r33 gtst 1993 it has a braided cable that runs down threw the chassis and comes out next to the exhaust, and theres something that attaches to that which im not sure what it is or where to get another one because i scraped going over a speed hump and its pulled it out and stuffed it and i think its shorting out, my thermostat light is staying on and check engine also comes on itermitently. Any help on where i can get another one of these, and or what it is would be good cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-6110663
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
hi guys on my r33 gtst 1993 it has a braided cable that runs down threw the chassis and comes out next to the exhaust, and theres something that attaches to that which im not sure what it is or where to get another one because i scraped going over a speed hump and its pulled it out and stuffed it and i think its shorting out, my thermostat light is staying on and check engine also comes on itermitently. Any help on where i can get another one of these, and or what it is would be good cheers

Disconnect it, it's useless. Pull out your passenger seat and delete that sensor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11244-r33-thermostat/#findComment-7274366
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...