Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i am thinking of going for the 044 external fuel pump with a surge tank and braided lines, would i need a lift pump?

Also people who have the in boot fuel systems can you post pix and give me your opinion on it.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/113627-fuel-system-setup/
Share on other sites

Just some advice; if youre going to use braided lines, use the teflon lined Earls braid to remove any fuel smell from the cabin or boot. Its more expensive but its worth it. Im not sure how (or why) the bubber lined braid seeps the fuel smell, but it definately does. Ive used the teflon stuff and its gold!

Shaun.

yeah fuel smell is a big problem.. mine is pretty bad, but thats due to not boxing the system yet.

if i was you, sell the tomei pump, drop a std one back in there as a lift pump..

also its common for the std wiring to not like running the kind of amps that the fuel pumps require..

my suggestion is to use the existing feed to power a relay that has direct power from your battery. gives better voltage at the pump which keeps flow rates up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
×
×
  • Create New...