Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need some so if anyone wants to get a Group buy going im in.

so has anyone found out what there worth?

also a little birdy told me that some engine builders can convert hydraulic lifters to solid..

any one had any experience with this?

orly?

hrmmm, how would i go about setting the lash then since the rb20 had hydro lifters?

when the motor is rebuilt i could have the machine shop cut the valves down to size but still leaves the problem of setting proper lash and if the lifters will work with the hydro cams i have...

  • 3 weeks later...

hi peoples im pretty sure you can rape an rb26 head for the solid lifters and buckets and convert the rb25 head to solid type lifters/buckets but have to go with cams to suit that set up, it can be done ive been told by a family member whos an engine reconditioner, thinking of taking that path myself.....revrevrev

I am currently playing with Gtr buckets into an gtst head. the valves an a gtr are about 14mm longer than a gtst so a 14mm spacer will have to be made to sit between the valve tip and under the bucket. I am also looking at using the valve retainers from the intake side (exhaust valve stems are thicker than the gtst) of the gtr and the shim adjusters to make this all adjustable. I am looking at using gtr springs as well and cutting the spring seats lower into the head due to the extra length of the springs. This is all in the aim of getting past the 9mm lift limit due to coil bind, even with aftermarket springs.

I will post up in a week or so when i have some final answers and cost involved in all this work, inc cam welding and regrinding.

P.S. if using solid lifters you usually have to use a different profile on the cam.

Cheers NutR33

Edited by NutR33

nice work nutr33

my only prob is finding a gtr head thats gone to take the parts out of and ill soon be having a play as well, ive been told that theres alot of work involved[im not really that switched on to whats acctually involved in the conversion]but im sure ill be educated well after its done,im about a year into an engine build and new ideas are constantly being thrown my way and the end doesnt seem to be in sight any time soon :unsure:

Maybe place an ad in the wanted section for the parts that you want. i guess a lot of people will have springs laying aroud after upgrades on gtr's. im just using std gtr springs at the time being until i get it all set up and then look at getting some aftermarket springs so that i can rev it up a bit.

hope this helps

P.S. im doing all this with the help of Wade Camshafts in melbourne so it is not just guess work and bush machanics.

Cheers NutR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...