Power Window

[baron25]

Hey all,

My driver's side window mechanism died the other week, it's always been slower than the other side but now it just sounds sick and rarely works. How hard is it to get in and replace?

[Wink]

Could be two things

- Regulator

- Power window motor

Not sure about regulator but a non genuine window motor will set you back $150 from http://www.justjap.com

[baron25]

Could be two things

- Regulator

- Power window motor

Not sure about regulator but a non genuine window motor will set you back $150 from http://www.justjap.com

Thanks Wink -Is it a job i can do myself, or does it need to be taken in?

[Ruffels]

you'd be supprised that it might actually be the connections on the ectual window switch itself

mine died too and it was a case of remove switch, unsolder everything, clean it will electircal contact cleaner, and resolder the wires back in

-Ruffels

[Wink]

baron25: I took it to an auto electrician to do.

You can also get genuine used motors for $195. You may want to because the non genuine ones are noisier in operation.

[hanyou]

mine is stuffed too.. its actuallyt he loom plug thats stuffed lol

[baron25]

Where does the switch connect to? I took the switch out yesterday, all looked clean, and when i pressed it i could hear something further back in the door click.

[Wink]

Where does the switch connect to? I took the switch out yesterday, all looked clean, and when i pressed it i could hear something further back in the door click.

Motors probably dead

[someonestolecc]

If you have time just try to swap one from a mate with the same car and troubleshoot which part is actually dead.

If it's just struggling to wind properly some silicone lube sprayed on the car door/window rubber to make it easier works wonders. Remember to wipe the window clean after this though otherwise you get oily windows. ... By the sounds of it though it's probably the motor or reg.

[HR-32]

if you can hear the motor but no movement def its the regulator and yep $195 2nd hand genuine and you can do this yourself with limited tools.

[joh21m]

its fairly easy to do yourself, took me 20 mins to do mine in the s13 and thats taking the entire assembly out and putting another in.

[teamplasma]

hey, mine's not working either but for a totally different reason, i hand my 33 resprayed and the painters took the door off and broke lose 5(that i can see) wires, i have ni idea what they plug into, has anyone or can someone please take some photo's of the drivers door with the door card off please, some nice close ups of the wires would be great

[skipppy]

i have replace the motor 12 months ago but now found it doest work again, where is the regulator?? and has anyone ever had problems with balck box relay thing??.

this is a serious problem with r33's im led to believe cause this seems to happen wtih everyones

[(B1) MR_fanny]

i think sometimes the relay switch doesnt turn off straight away when u auto wind up hence burning the motor out earlier. thats why i dont use auto up anymore

its a prety easy job to replace if u know what ur doing. i learnt the hard way. all u have to do is unbolt 3 bolts that hold the motor to the bracket take it out and whack the new one in all with the window up and intacked. no need to take the complete arm assembly out. now getting to the 3 bolts thats another story. a small prison mirrow and a miners spotlight will help..lol. sholdnt take you more than 30mins if u do it right.

[slimjim]

Where does the switch connect to? I took the switch out yesterday, all looked clean, and when i pressed it i could hear something further back in the door click.

I'm having the same problem at the moment with my R32 GT-R. After taking the door panel off I've figured its the power window amplifier that's stuffed. It's the little black box bolted onto the door with 2 screws.

It makes a click everytime I flick the switch. With the door apart and me fiddling with it, I can make the window work, but everytime I start to put the door back together and test it, it decides not to work again.

Has anyone fixed a power window amplifier? Or should it just be replaced. If so where could I source one and how much $$$?

Thanks

[Godzilla32]

The black box thats clicking will most likely be a relay for the window motor. If its clicking its probably still working, as the clicking you hear is the switch in the relay working. They are a silly/complex setup in the skylines so far as window operation goes. If you have a problem with it it would be best to remove the regulator assembly fixed with 4 bolts/nuts (if i remember correctly) and test it outside the car. This way you can make sure everything is working correctly. Or what is not

[Jordan]

Hey Guys,

The Auto-Up and Down functions are what burns out motors. I have read a few threads on this already and it seems to be the case for a few people. When the window is motoring up and down in auto mode, and the maximum excursion is reached (ie, it hits the stops top or bottom) resistance builds up from the motor, this will cause a spike in the amps being drawn and the smarts inside the curcuit will cut the power to the motor. My 33 has a problem with the switch because it is all floppy when you press down on it, and will stay down and not actually release properly even though I think it has. Needed to listen to the clicks audible from the relays in the regulator to eventually work that out

The smarts in the circuit do not appear to be set out in a logical way that cuts power to the window motors in the first (pre-auto) position and this has been burning out my motors. I have already gone through 3 replacement motors.

I have a EF Fairmont with a similar problem. The switch sticks when it auto-downs and I forget about it, the window stays down and wont raise again. But there is a safty circuit built in which resets itself when the car is switched on then off again. Geez, evan my dad has a 1978 Rolls Royce Silver Shadow II with power windows, and it also has a reset circuit behind the glovebox with a button you press in the event a passenger leans on the switch for too long.

I really wonder why Nissan just didnt put a fuse or something in there somewhere? I hate to think I am going to need a fourth motor again.