Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is an equal length engine pipe for an RB26DETT with a decent length of separation of the split dumps.

nengun-product-207.jpg

:) cheers :O

Are thereany difference between a normal aftermarket front pipe and a front pipe for competition use only?

Are thereany difference between a normal aftermarket front pipe and a front pipe for competition use only?

Finally i sourced out a dump pope for the 260rs. Its from a R32gtr. thanks again for the help that you guys have given me. So i've got HKS dumps and front pipe. I have not sourced out a cat back yet. dont know which brand.

Also anybody know about 260rs BOV? can i use the r32gtrs BOV?

Finally i sourced out a dump pope for the 260rs. Its from a R32gtr. thanks again for the help that you guys have given me. So i've got HKS dumps and front pipe. I have not sourced out a cat back yet. dont know which brand.

Also anybody know about 260rs BOV? can i use the r32gtrs BOV?

The standard 260RS BOV's are perfect, LEAVE THEM ALONE.

Bad choice on the HKS split dumps, they are too short for decent separation.

That's why I put up the pictures of dumps with decent length of separation.

That's why you have to buy dump pipes (long) and engine pipes (short) at the same time.

Try and aim for R33GTR parts, many R32GTR parts won't fit.

:bunny: cheers :O

The standard 260RS BOV's are perfect, LEAVE THEM ALONE.

Bad choice on the HKS split dumps, they are too short for decent separation.

That's why I put up the pictures of dumps with decent length of separation.

That's why you have to buy dump pipes (long) and engine pipes (short) at the same time.

Try and aim for R33GTR parts, many R32GTR parts won't fit.

:) cheers :)

ok sydney im getting more confuse now. When you say its too short (the dump pipe) do you mean as a whole or just the split? They are almost equal lenght you know. The dump pipes im looking at are for R32, 33,44s. That what it says. unless they have it wrong. I've talked to Steve in gold coast the guy who owns the wreckers yard and he said r32 or 33s dump pipes wise are the same. Which is which now? :(

If the HKS dump pie is too short than which brand were you referring too? The only reason i chose the HKS dum pipe is beacause my front pipe is a HKS as well. so...

Can you elaborate more which is the engine pipe? And how about this dump pipe? i would have guessed it too short huh...

post-27949-1146482885.jpg

Edited by stasis
ok sydney im getting more confuse now. When you say its too short (the dump pipe) do you mean as a whole or just the split? They are almost equal lenght you know. The dump pipes im looking at are for R32, 33,44s. That what it says. unless they have it wrong. I've talked to Steve in gold coast the guy who owns the wreckers yard and he said r32 or 33s dump pipes wise are the same. Which is which now? :)

If the HKS dump pie is too short than which brand were you referring too? The only reason i chose the HKS dum pipe is beacause my front pipe is a HKS as well. so...

Can you elaborate more which is the engine pipe? And how about this dump pipe? i would have guessed it too short huh...

Lets get the terminology aligned first

turbo ---->dump

.........................-----> engine pipe-------> cat --------->cat back exhaust

turbo----->dump

Now onto your questions, firstly the separation is too short. The purpose of a split dump is to separate the turbulance caused by the opening of the wastegate from the spiralling output of the turbine. By separating them you get faster boost build, quicker throtte response and higher average power over the used RPM range. The HKS split dumps don't separate the wastegate exhaust and the turbine exhaust for long enough, the pipes are too short, they join too quickly, the separation isn't long enough.

The reason HKS make them that short is because that is the length of the standard dump. HKS assume that you want to use a standard length engine pipe, so they have to make the dump the standard length. Even if it is too short for maximum effect. The Japanese bolt on philosophy says "make a replacement part fit exactly as the standard part". Mechanics in Japan charge like brain surgeons, so fitting labour has to be minimalised.

The better split dumps (longer separation) come with their own engine pipe in a kit. They have to as the longer dump means you can't use a standard length engine pipe. As you can see in the picture (previous post) of the Apexi long split dumps and engine pipe kit.

Hope that answers your question

:thumbsup: cheers :D

Lets get the terminology aligned first

turbo ---->dump

.........................-----> engine pipe-------> cat --------->cat back exhaust

turbo----->dump

Now onto your questions, firstly the separation is too short. The purpose of a split dump is to separate the turbulance caused by the opening of the wastegate from the spiralling output of the turbine. By separating them you get faster boost build, quicker throtte response and higher average power over the used RPM range. The HKS split dumps don't separate the wastegate exhaust and the turbine exhaust for long enough, the pipes are too short, they join too quickly, the separation isn't long enough.

The reason HKS make them that short is because that is the length of the standard dump. HKS assume that you want to use a standard length engine pipe, so they have to make the dump the standard length. Even if it is too short for maximum effect. The Japanese bolt on philosophy says "make a replacement part fit exactly as the standard part". Mechanics in Japan charge like brain surgeons, so fitting labour has to be minimalised.

The better split dumps (longer separation) come with their own engine pipe in a kit. They have to as the longer dump means you can't use a standard length engine pipe. As you can see in the picture (previous post) of the Apexi long split dumps and engine pipe kit.

Hope that answers your question

:ermm: cheers :D

ok the layer of fog have lifted up. If thats the case Apex does make a front and dump pipe in one? Is this coerrect? I probbably should start learning jap language cos the web pages that im browsing now its all in Jap!!!.

As i recall i think Just jap have a unit thats 2 in one dump and front pipe 2 in 1. Is it recommended?

HKS make direct replacment dump pipes, using stock standard front pipes is possible, or any direct replacement front pipe thats aftermarket.

To have the best performance, the dump pipes need to be longer, therefore the front pipe has to be smaller to fit in the same distance under the car.

You need to buy a full dump/front pipe kit from Apexi if you want the longer split dump pipes.

HKS make direct replacment dump pipes, using stock standard front pipes is possible, or any direct replacement front pipe thats aftermarket.

To have the best performance, the dump pipes need to be longer, therefore the front pipe has to be smaller to fit in the same distance under the car.

You need to buy a full dump/front pipe kit from Apexi if you want the longer split dump pipes.

Do you have a poc of the apex stuff by any chance?

Are Apex the only Jap Tuner brand to do dump/front pipes with longer then standard splits? I am looking to buy a HKS cat back exhaust and being a fan of HKS my first instinct is to get HKS dump/front pipes also...

I want maximum performance increases from my exhaust so I want to get it right... From what I have seen Trust also makes some good dump/front pipes, anyone able to comment on that?

Anyone care to comment on what exhausts give the most performance increases, bearing in mind I am a HKS fan and muffler wise I prefer the angled "drift" style cannon muffler....

Cheers

Brett

Are Apex the only Jap Tuner brand to do dump/front pipes with longer then standard splits? I am looking to buy a HKS cat back exhaust and being a fan of HKS my first instinct is to get HKS dump/front pipes also...

I want maximum performance increases from my exhaust so I want to get it right... From what I have seen Trust also makes some good dump/front pipes, anyone able to comment on that?

Anyone care to comment on what exhausts give the most performance increases, bearing in mind I am a HKS fan and muffler wise I prefer the angled "drift" style cannon muffler....

Cheers

Brett

get a hyper ev mag on stageas from japan. its the bible. anybody seconfs that?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...