Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 240
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hello mona

Sorry to hear about you motor.

I got some parts laying around at my shop if you need something. Standard cranks,rods,ETC.

As for the engine, I wouldnt really blame the Tuner.Sounds & looks more to an oil surge which could of been a long thing comming.

As for this rev limit business,I sit on the limiter which is 8200RPM doing my burnouts with the standard motor on 18 psi.As doughboy and buster have seen.I wouldnt blame hitting the rev limiter.

What is you rev limit set on mona and do you have an oil Pressure guage in the car.What oil do you use in your car.

my opinion on the cause is either

-Rod gave up

-Oil surge

For this to be caused by pinging the pistons would of all been rounded on the edges due to detention.

Good luck with your new build.I would stick to the RB25.RB26 if you want to spend the money. I wouldnt recommend going to the RB30 stage till you wanna run in the 9`s.

I don't think i ever blamed the tuner?! but i did say my car has a very long history of pinging... i NEVER had a ping free tune!! on the road.. most times... on wsid... i always saw the check engine light flash and would fix by chucking in octane booster!

rev limiter is set to about 7.5k i think... and i VERY RARELY hit it! even at ec! i did hit it once or twice when i was still learning where it was.. but thats all... and on the track... i don't think i hit the limiter at all!!! there isn't even enough room to!

it was an oil surge and not detonation like i previously thought.. but it does look like (as adrian has stated) that there was some detonation... and my mechanic did see alot of damage due to detonation in the engine... it may very well have been a combo of both!

no oil pressure gauge and i use motul!

thanks for the offer for parts... i'll keep that in mind! :)

yess. oil surge is the suck. hope all are learning from this debarkle

and there was no evidence of detination on any of the good pistons. so chances are you propbably had a dicky knock sensor..or they were done up to tight on the block

ie.. track use you MUST add at least an extra 1-1.5 litres of oil. but any way...back the the great debate.........:

for all intents and purposes a 3litre would be the go. i have given this much thought.

from having a 330rwkw dr30 i know traction will be very limited on the street.

so either way a 3litre or 2.5 doesnt really mater. from a budget and down time point of view id do a 2.5.

but for the wow factor and ultimatly the better setup for the street id go 3litre.

besides. why rev it past 7k anyway. i know mona doesnt like lag so chances are itle have a relativly small turbo.

clearly the combo works whether it be with a 26 head or 25 head. so you have my support either way

cool. a anti 3litre argument. :)

Not really just misinformed parrot quoting information and being corrected, I too get sick of all the go RB30 talk as its not always the best or easiest solution as I keep saying each RB has a place if only we could all get over our oooh RBXX is the best attitudes and keep open minds :P

hahaha... nah.. thanks morgs :D

i really am still deciding! its alot of money to consider! my mechanic is putting together a pricelist with possibilities.. it really comes down to what i'm willing to spend... and depending on my mood down the track it can range from alot to very little...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...