Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 240
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

best thing for you to do mona if all you want is 250 KW is just buy a bare motor and put your bolt ons on it.

Otherwise if you do want more power

$$$$$

depends what you wanna use the car for in the end

Im selling my car cause ive got a new project comming

aiming for the 800Kw mark and in the mid 8 second passes.no point in wasting my car just sell it and start fresh

Interesting. Buster's right. They all have their place and not just from a performance perspective. There are other things to consider. I looked at the rebuild NEO or go RB30 thing recently when mine blew and decided that the rebuild suited me best. I'm happy with my choice and enjoying it.

from what it seems its overly sensitive. this can happen from having the sensor to tight.

the pistons are perfect. not a whisper of detonation

I got this problem with my 3 litre.. it allways knocks on the PFC but we can never hear it at all!!!

I took it to many dyno's and they tuned it with knock levels of around 100 yet there was no detonation because we could not hear it at all.

They told me to ignore the knock level because its not knocking.

My knock sensors used to work ok till the 3 litre went in to maybe we tightend them up too hard ??? how do you know when its in too hard ??? how to you get it right ?

Edited by Guilt-Toy
I got this problem with my 3 litre.. it allways knocks on the PFC but we can never hear it at all!!!

I took it to many dyno's and they tuned it with knock levels of around 100 yet there was detonation because we could not hear it at all.

They told me to ignore the knock level because its not knocking.

My knock sensors used to work ok till the 3 litre went in to maybe we tightend them up too hard ??? how do you know when its in too hard ??? how to you get it right ?

from memory its 15nm. with a lubricated thread. so yeah. just nipped up

basicly the same tension as the ignition coil holders.(the 12mm bolts)

from memory its 15nm. with a lubricated thread. so yeah. just nipped up

basicly the same tension as the ignition coil holders.(the 12mm bolts)

I did not even know about the coil holders not needing to be in tight lol

Got any other usefull information for us ? =)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...