Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i am in need of some lots of knowled about the Rear setup and modafying it of a RMR30 hatch syline.

Main points.

What are good for price aftermarket shocks that go straight in.

what car with higher rate springs has the same spring base.

how do i get a Neg camber plate very small one.

:P the Diff sucks any easy upgrades.(my axles are a bitch to take out lol)

thank you in advance casey james

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115040-r30-ppl-i-need-help/
Share on other sites

Ok i am in need of some lots of knowled about the Rear setup and modafying it of a RMR30 hatch syline.

Main points.

What are good for price aftermarket shocks that go straight in.

what car with higher rate springs has the same spring base.

how do i get a Neg camber plate very small one.

:worship: the Diff sucks any easy upgrades.(my axles are a bitch to take out lol)

thank you in advance casey james

Casey,

I have a pair of nearly brand new orange adjustable Koni's you can have for $100.00. They have never been on the road, just got fitted to my original project car, Ti Hatch for transporting to new premises and now out, as it got scrapped for parts.

As for higher rate rear springs, for reasonably normal day to day driving, the stock ones are fine about 120~130lb/in.

Get new fronts at about 175lb/in instead of the standards @ 108lb/in. If your in Sydney, Allsprings at Heathcote Rd Liverpool will make you a custom set for $125.00 pair. If your going this way, I have the Koni's still brand new in the box to go with them. Get a stiffer front sway bar and polyurethane bushes.

What's a "negative camber plate" .................... very small one ??????????????????????

As for the diff, unless you have $1500.00 to throw around forget any upgrade, as the only upgrade is an R200 and an LSD R200 will cost you pretty much that. An open R200 from maybe a Z31 300ZX will set you back about $300 upwards depending on it's condition.

I have an standard R180 open diff, 3.9:1 that came out of a car with just 40K on the clock and you can have that with a money back g'tee. The half shafts press into the side of the diff & lock with a circlip and with a couple of tire levers or big screwdrivers, you should be able to pop them out.

The trick with getting them out off the hubs is the left one needs to come out upwards and the right down, or that's how I found it. They are tight, but the outer CV's are spring loaded and have enough play to remove them.

Remember off the shelf cars were made to have luggage and passengers in them, that really equates to nothing as far as handling goes.

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Dennis

As for the Koni's will call ya Tommorow and you can send em to me :(.

Diff is a maybe.

When talking about negative camber plates. Bah nevermind i will explain when i call you lol

and about the Higher spring rates i was talking as in i use Falcon au spec kings lows for the Rolla and thought maybe something similar might fit into the Spring base of the Skyline?

thanks heaps keep all Rear info coming. Front to i guess <.<

Would have been nice for more than one post? front info needed now aswell. guy already sold my coils! :)

As your in Qld, probably easier to get a couple of sets of King Springs. Tell them what your planning for the car and what rates you want and they will probably make them for you.

If your intending to drive it on the road, 200lb/in would be heaps on the back and make a corresponding front pair at about 33% stiffer. eg, 200lb/in rears ............ 260lb/in fronts. If it's a drift car ONLY! you can make the rears a little stiffer to maybe 250lb/in and get a stiffer/thicker than standard 20mm rear sway bar.

Ride height is a matter of choice, but 30mm lowered is usually the normal go.

Camber adjustable strut tops for the front are near impossible to find for anything R30, but S13 tops are the same stud pattern and could be modified to get you about 2 - 3 degrees. They will give a tad over 1.5% as they are, but to get more, mods are needed.

Will PM you with contact details about the Koni's etc.

Cheers, D

As your in Qld, probably easier to get a couple of sets of King Springs. Tell them what your planning for the car and what rates you want and they will probably make them for you.

If your intending to drive it on the road, 200lb/in would be heaps on the back and make a corresponding front pair at about 33% stiffer. eg, 200lb/in rears ............ 260lb/in fronts. If it's a drift car ONLY! you can make the rears a little stiffer to maybe 250lb/in and get a stiffer/thicker than standard 20mm rear sway bar.

Ride height is a matter of choice, but 30mm lowered is usually the normal go.

Camber adjustable strut tops for the front are near impossible to find for anything R30, but S13 tops are the same stud pattern and could be modified to get you about 2 - 3 degrees. They will give a tad over 1.5% as they are, but to get more, mods are needed.

Will PM you with contact details about the Koni's etc.

Cheers, D

K-Mac and Noltec both do adjustable strut tops for R30

http://www.noltecsuspension.com/files/cata...20Catalogue.pdf

http://www.k-mac.com/

Thanks for the info.

rb30de with uber high compression will be the new power plant.

would really prefer a stronger Adjustable coilover type front end. but prices are insane.

dedicated Drift car track only of course :thumbsup: lol

Edited by R30kc70UGE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...