Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

tubbing, thats a lot of work, if all u want to do is fit big wheels and slam it.

i have a R33 GTSt with 20x8.5" wheels and slammed hard and all i have done is rolled all the guards and removed guard lining. the tyres do not rub on hard lock either. guard sits just on the rim at the back and half way down the tyre at the front.

why not go widebody if u want wider wheels.

thanks for your replys

yeh I thought of the wide body thing but the only place ive seen a wide body kit was ages ago on ebay even did a search on google and all the bodykit/tuning sites and no go

Tubs??? Just how wide do you want to go? I've got 10" wide rims under my S13 Silvia with lipped guards only. Ok, it isn't slammed as much as some, but then again slamming cars too much blah blah blah.

Tubs??? Just how wide do you want to go? I've got 10" wide rims under my S13 Silvia with lipped guards only. Ok, it isn't slammed as much as some, but then again slamming cars too much blah blah blah.

wanted to go like 20/10 or 20/9.5 but want it to sit nice and low with the rims under the panel but ive got 17/8 momo's on there at the moment at close to stock height and get scrapes at not even full lock so I thought rolling and tubbing if poss would be the way to go as long as no major structural changes

wanted to go like 20/10 or 20/9.5 but want it to sit nice and low with the rims under the panel but ive got 17/8 momo's on there at the moment at close to stock height and get scrapes at not even full lock so I thought rolling and tubbing if poss would be the way to go as long as no major structural changes

Sounds like you've got completely wack FWD offset wheels on if 8" wide rims scrape on your 33.

Basically, I had 19x9.5 rims on the front of my S13 and they didn't scrape at all lock to lock. It was a matter of either a) getting a low enough offset (like +15 or lower) or wacking a 25mm spacer on... but do that and you'd have to get wide front guards obviously. Flaring the rear guards would be the maximum you'd have to do in order to fit 10" wide rims.

I'll be honest, when talking about Skylines I'd only really recommend proper Japanese wheels in conservative sizes (up to 18/19 inch). Going 20s with widths over 9" wide is getting into VIP territory and really only suited to big sedans/SUVs.

mate u will be hard pressed to find a 20 x 9.5 or 20 x 10 wheel to fit a Skyline. I looked for ages but could only get 20 x 8.5.

ive got these on my R33 and the car is slammed hard. currently only 225 tyres but would comfortably go 255s on the rear. plenty of room!

Edited by _8OO5TED_

i think topstage do widebody for r33s amongst other things.

to me tho there isnt much point putting 20s on a skyline, it just doesnt look right in my opinion. 20s is vip territory imo. skylines dont event tuck rim at the rear even with 20s...?

to me tho there isnt much point putting 20s on a skyline, it just doesnt look right in my opinion. 20s is vip territory imo. skylines dont event tuck rim at the rear even with 20s...?

fair enough each to his own

the paint and wheels im thinking of will go well together I think, sort of going for a theme for the car and even though I love jap cars I dont think much of their wheels

ive got 20s on my skyline and they fill the guards perfectly

any smaller and there would be too much gap between the rim and guard

and before people start crying about the weight they are lighter then my 17" lenso rims on my old pulsar.

20s will fit on a R33 and tuck under the guards at the rear with ease as long as you roll them. nothing else is needed.

ive got pics of my 4dr here of them fitting with ease, i have had the suspension lower since. will get some pics when i can. i know its a 4dr but the guards are exactly the same as a 2dr.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=110218

  • 2 weeks later...
ive got 20s on my skyline and they fill the guards perfectly

any smaller and there would be too much gap between the rim and guard

and before people start crying about the weight they are lighter then my 17" lenso rims on my old pulsar.

see thats what Im talkin about! nice ride man, by the way mind telling me who did your paint and interior?

Edited by BOVed
mate u will be hard pressed to find a 20 x 9.5 or 20 x 10 wheel to fit a Skyline. I looked for ages but could only get 20 x 8.5.

ive got these on my R33 and the car is slammed hard. currently only 225 tyres but would comfortably go 255s on the rear. plenty of room!

Yeah your right man their the widest 20's I can find too, damn shame if you ask me, found some nice 19 x 10s though lightweight racing rims too-konig unkown- five chrome spokes over five opposite black spokes look nice can't remember wether it was ozzytyres or st.geaorgetyres at the mo and feelin' lazy so not gonna look it up, but they qouted me $2700 with tyres which I thought was reasonable

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...