Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTRs have better engines, g/box's, diffs, gards,seats and suspention, wouldn't it be better to simply remove

the front diff and drive shafts (if you could be bothered) to offset the very slight weight disadvantage than to build up a GTST? trust me, i've done it!

Better what?

box, diff - no

gards - not sure what you are getting at

suspension - stock for stock its all average

seats - GTR seats are not as flash as you think

Better what?

box, diff - no - i'm talking about a 32, and yes thay are stronger

gards - not sure what you are getting at -fit wider rims and more lock

suspension - stock for stock its all average -i'll give you that one

seats - GTR seats are not as flash as you think -have you drifted in both, gtr seats are better

  • 4 weeks later...

race and rally r32 gtst-$6000

-$2000-$4000 rb25/26

-$1000-$2000 rb25 gearbox

-$600-$2000 better seats

-$1000-$2000 wider gaurds

-$800 gtr cradle (diff and drive shafts)

tatal-$10500-$16000 plus labour

race and rally r32gtr-$10000 allready cheaper and no labour

Well add up what it costs if you blow a motor (Rb26's are not cheap to rebuild) and finding parts is just a pain in the arse.

Compare it to a R32 GTS-t with a lo comp RB25DE, strap on the hairdryer and dial in 16psi and you have 270rwk's and lots of torque.

We all know that torque equals fun :P

The main reason Adam asked this question in the first place was becuase he only had the GTR and we had our first Drift day here on the Apple Isle.

He now has a drift pig and i believe the GTR will be left for its daily driving duties :)

Cheers GMB

DrifTas

Im pretty sure he was waiting for it to arrive but didnt want to miss out on the drift day :)

Put a 1.9MM metal gasket in (should pull the compression to 10:1) and it will handle that on its ear.

Rev better than any worked Rb20, more torque and about the same cost as building a forged 20 :D

I know which one i would be going (i need $$$ :) )

GTR was fun at the drift day. Power burn outs. GTR's are a shit drift car. Having drove my gts-t last weekend there is no comparason. Grandmaster B was right I didn't want to miss the drift day. I am going to post pics of my gts-t drifting lastweekend. Enjoy. :angry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...