Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

during a phone conversation today with a local tuning shop i was told i should be using a wastegate to run 1.2bar on my rb20 powered 32. i have had the car for 3 months now and it has been happy to run 1.2bar thru its gt2510 probably half the time i drive it...

is it true i should use gate to run this boost? or is there a sales pitch going on??

im pretty sure 1.2bar is no sweat for this turbo but i though i'd get another opinion from u guys...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/115969-wastegate-truth-or-lies/
Share on other sites

its much better to run boost control via the wastegaste.

if for example you have as 0.50bar wastergate and want to run 1.1bar boost then the controller has to work very hard to maintain the pressure difference, it will likely fail and try its best.

that being said if you move to a 1 bar actuator thats the minimum about of boost you can run, ie you cant have a 1 bar actuator and set your boost controller to run 8psi

Off the gate is better.

Reason being (at least with external) you get the spring rate that is closest to your target boost.

This ensures you dont have wastegate creep/gate doesnt open prematurely etc.

I ran 15psi straight off my gate and bleed it upto 17psi.

When i had the 7psi spring, i would get gate creep in 5th gear as it was coming onto boost so it would take longer to build 17psi.

And thus under a great load the car became much slower as it took forever to build boost in taller gears

definately not a sales pitch

cheers

2510 is internally gated, i wouldn't see why they would get you to run an external gate on that..

maybe upgrade the actuator, but not swap to external

funnily enough it has a nissan stamped actuator.... ?

dont know if thats what comes on the gt2510 or an upgrade

Off the gate is better.

Reason being (at least with external) you get the spring rate that is closest to your target boost.

This ensures you dont have wastegate creep/gate doesnt open prematurely etc.

I ran 15psi straight off my gate and bleed it upto 17psi.

When i had the 7psi spring, i would get gate creep in 5th gear as it was coming onto boost so it would take longer to build 17psi.

And thus under a great load the car became much slower as it took forever to build boost in taller gears

definately not a sales pitch

cheers

hi so if im running a 9psi spring in my external and have a ebc set at 16psi will it thake longer to build boost than if i had a 14 psi spring and ebc set at 16?

ok, so i still dont think i need another gate because theres is no gate creep or boost problems that i can notice so there is no problem in my mind but thanks heaps for the tips and info guys.

soo...just for my own curiosity and maybe some future tinkering with...

are upgraded internal gates a brand name aftermarket item?

or

oem/second hand items available off other turbos on the market?

Edited by BSK

Your turbo is internally gated yes?

If so, there is no "shelf upgrade"

The internal Wastegate is a part of the turbine housing of the turbo itself

They can be modified (ie drilled out) and other things, but again, i dont think you need it

cheers

hi so if im running a 9psi spring in my external and have a ebc set at 16psi will it thake longer to build boost than if i had a 14 psi spring and ebc set at 16?

potentially yes. every car is different, and you might not have a problem.

But its always best to get it close as you can to give you gauranted max performance

In lower gears you might not notice this.

IMO you dont need an EBC on an external gate, i only ever used a bleed valve as you let the wastegate do the work for you.

That is, after all its job... to control boost.

the less work the boost controller has to do the better.. a more stable boost curve will be acheivable with a gate spring that is closer to desired boost level rather than relying on the boost controller to modify the pressure the gate is recieving.

in the example with a 9psi spring, it will make it to 9psi fine but the progression after that can be affected with the delay and duty cycle of the boost controller.

HKS sell adjustable actuators. could use other ones but not many cars run 14psi std .. so aftermarket is where you would have to go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...