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My Wastegate Actuator Mod*updated With New Pics Of New Mod*

mr_rbman
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mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted (edited)

well as some of you know i'm in the process of putting an XR6 Turbo on my Rb30 Twin cam, most of it has been reasonably staraight forward apart from the actuator was fouling the front compressor housing so i made this little bracket and shortened the travel so that now it doesn't foul anything.

imgp04586ya.th.jpg imgp04597qv.th.jpg imgp04610um.th.jpg imgp04623qt.th.jpg

Basically i want to know if anyone can see this being a problem now or sometime in the future? I tested it with compressed air and it opens fine!

One thing i noticed after welding it was that it had a lot more movement in it, due to the heat. Could i have damaged the internals of the actuator? Can anyone see this being a problem?

The other things is that the wastegate flap now only opens to about 45 degrees, could this be a problem?

Edited by mr_rbman
discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

The problem I see is the actuator not working in the same plane as the wastegate lever so the actuator rod deflects and this may not suit its spring and diaphram . I have had one modified but we used a die nut to run a thread along the shaft and screwed an adapter and lock nut onto it .

The actuator on yours is way clear of the compressor cover but closer to the turbine housing and the bracket is bolted to it which is a worry heat wise . Some turbos have the actuator a long way forward and use long rods . I have a pic of a Garrett TB31 (propper factory T3/TO4E) that I'll post up so you can see how they did it .

Back soon cheers A .

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

I assume your turbo is the Ford XR6 type GT3540R which uses a TO4E .50AR compressor cover similar to this TB31 .

Indexing the covers/housings can make life difficult with integral gate type turbos but usually something can be made to work .

Most brackets I've seem made were 1/8 mild steel plate and if folds were needed they were made in a vise with a hammer . Cardboard templates help out and can be traced to the plate initially complete with holes marked out .

Given a choise I would always mount them off the comp cover to backplate bolt holes .

Cheers A .

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mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the pics, yes it is an xr6 turbo. I was thinking the plate would act as a heat shield??? (5mm thick) Could i have damged the diaphram by welding the rod? I couldn't mount it off the compressor housing as it fouled wherever i put it given i've put the turbo on the standard manifold!

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nah, been there done that, it almost hits the engine mount cause its on the standard manifold! The way its facing is the only way i can have it!

Do you know if you can replace just the internals of your wastegate actuator? I'm just a little worried i damaged it while welding it!

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Sorry to be so negative........

1. The wastegate actuator should always work in the same plain as the wastgate opening. Wastegate actuators can tolerate slight changes in angle, but I think you have exceeded "slight".

2. Mounting the wastegate actuator so close to the turbine cover is asking for problems, they don'tlike too much heat. That's why the reliable factory wastegate actuators are mounted off the compressor cover, a long way from the turbine.

3. Welding the wastegate actuator was not a good idea, they are simply a diaphram in a metal case, with lightweight spring. Welding heat can have esily damaged the diaphram itself and/or the spring causing it to lose tension. A new wastegate actuator would be on my list.

I would make a bracket off the compressor cover, as forward as necessary to clear the compressor outlet piping (similar to what A has posted). Then lengthen the wastegate actuator rod to suite. Bolt the wastegate actuator onto that bracket, don't weld it.

:O cheers :ban:

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the input both of you, i've already taken my turbo to a bloke here in SA and bought a new actuator cause i wasn't happy with how i'd set it up for the reasons you'd already stated!

May have cost me a bit more but atleast i'll have peace of mind now!

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Good stuff mr_rbman

I can't wait to see how that turbo goes on the RB30 mate.

Let us all know how the setup goes in the end.

Will do, fingers crossed it'll be on the road by the end of the week if nothing else goes wrong.

Anyone else looking at doing an actuator mod, don't mount it off the exhaust housing for the above reasons stated, too much heat for an actuator to handle!

RedDrifter Experienced

RedDrifter

Posted
Posted
Will do, fingers crossed it'll be on the road by the end of the week if nothing else goes wrong.

Anyone else looking at doing an actuator mod, don't mount it off the exhaust housing for the above reasons stated, too much heat for an actuator to handle!

You could always ceramic heat treat it.

:ban:

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

turboac12ot.th.jpg turboac24dm.th.jpg turboac32vj.th.jpg turboac47hg.th.jpg turboac56aa.th.jpg

Well here's my new oil and water lines with new actuator bracket, much better than the first mod i did! Couple of little thing left to do but should be on the car shortly!

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