Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Have an alarm I am wanting to install, but don't want to attempt it myself, as I am unable to locate / source a wiring diagram for my Cefiro.

Was wondering if anyone knew of someone or somewhere that can do it for me?

Not gonna go to Strathfield and get a dodgy job done....

Cheers,

Ando

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116133-alarm-installer-sydney/
Share on other sites

Have an alarm I am wanting to install, but don't want to attempt it myself, as I am unable to locate / source a wiring diagram for my Cefiro.

Yo Ando. When I was putting mine in the wiring turned out to be (for the purposes of the alarm) exactly like the r32 one.

I also got a couple of tricks for ya. I'll give ya a ring about these though :mrt:

A.A.P.A.

Unit 3/ 10 Eddie Rd Minchinbury NSW 2770

ph: (02) 9677 9333 Car Alarms

They are the guys that have done all my car alarms. They are very good and reliable. They do alot of car alarms for big companies like optus...

Speak to "Dragon"

This guy done my car,he is the cheapest when i shop around..A very well done job.He can even custom make a tracking system for u(one of those system that if some one break in to your car it will call your mobile) for 150 or some thing like that...and he will come to you..

PH 0411789719

I also recommend James Trikalis (0408443352). He is the head contractor for Brant and Autowatch. He did an awesome job installing an alarm in my R32 with:

3point black wire immobiliser

Siren

Tilt, Jolt, Shock sensors

Cabin motion sensors

Quick track GPS (rings your mobile when alarm sounds and you can control most functions on the car from phone)

I just booked him to install the same + keypad in my R34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...