Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.tygarbyte.com/r33wheelstud.html

Sorry its more of a blog, that i made for my site.

It all started when they tried to take the rims off. I knew I should have waited to get afermarket rims from Japan instead of going cheapo. Well anyways the Tyre shop snapped one wheel stud trying to get it off, I would have done the same thing if i tried to take it off myself, so I just have to put on a smile and curse myself on the inside. I have had it happen when I first purchased the Rims, but I wont be going back there to do business.

brokenstuds.jpg

Snapped stud in lug nut , snapped studs and rounded stud.

Well I ended up fixing this myself, This is my first time so it was quite simple really but I had to change three studs and took me a whole day, but i got side tracked. However if you focus on the task - it should take only 2 hrs max. I snapped another stud trying to take it off.

Take off your tyres, then your rear brake, then the disk. The disk might be stuck, but you just have to give it a good hit to losen it. Make sure that you have the car on a level surface as the hand brakes need to be off or else you wont be able to take the brakes off :-). So I chocked the front two wheels with bricks to stop it from moving.

rearstuds.jpg

Because you have to rotate the wheels to line up with the gap so that you can remove the broken studs. Hence both rear wheels need to be jacked up, so I ended getting another jack on the other side. It is also easier to turn the other tyre to line up the gaps.

holealign1.jpg

Once you have lined the stud up with the gap behind you can hit it, so that it pops out, you may need a bit of force. Putting the studs in, you have to use this gap to get the new studs in also.

You can get the parts from any spare parts shop. I got mine from

Mekong Auto Spares 02 9724 0691

Canley Vale - Motor Replacement Parts

Part number NS457 - Price $4 each stud. I can confirm that these fit on the rears of my R33 S1 GTsT.

chart1.jpg

To install the wheel studs, line it up in the gap and use some washers and then tighten it up. Make sure that you have lined it up straight or else it wont fit, it doesnt hurt to put some grease and WD40. Then just tighten the nut untill it pulls the stud into place. ( Drop the other rear wheel so that it has traction, making it easier to tighten )

install1.jpg

install2.jpg

install3.jpg

Once all studs and back in, just put your disk, brakes and tyres back on. Just a tip that I got - putting a bit of grease on the studs stops the studs from flaking and helps stop the nuts from seizing up.

  • 1 year later...

thanks for the good guide :fakenopic: but in changing my broken studs the other guides which i needed with there pics where

REMOVING THE DISC

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=rear+hub

other things i found helpful for this job

i didnt have any washers big enough for the job so i used a ring nut end of my spanner to space it out to do up my bolts so they were in firm then put the disc and wheel back on tighted it all up with a wheel brace .

just keep goin till you feel it go tight then take your wheel and disc to check they are up tight

dont drop you bolt in the bottom of the drum its a pain to get out :)

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...