Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just seeing who will be going to each event so i can choose which one i will enter.

Im thinking of going Supa nats to compete against The V8`s

I hope your kidding.....going to a full drag strip to compete in a round of the National Championship with computerised lights and timing system...or...race half track, no timing system, a rolling start and with "biased" people running/judging the outcome, started by some bogan waving a flag.

Go where you like, but the sport of high tech drag racing in this country needs support both in entrants and spectators.

Ill be racing at WSID.

Edited by DiRTgarage
I hope your kidding.....going to a full drag strip to compete in a round of the National Championship with computerised lights and timing system...or...race half track, no timing system, a rolling start and with "biased" people running/judging the outcome, started by some bogan waving a flag.

Go where you like, but the sport of high tech drag racing in this country needs support both in entrants and spectators.

Ill be racing at WSID.

Man i was only going there to do burnouts

lol

Any ways you have convinced me to get the cage ready for Compact attack so i guess ill be racing 2

Perhaps someone in the know can answer this, but what's the likely turn out of racers for this event?

I raced at the last Sport Compact event at WSID and enjoyed the experience (despite the fact I had car trouble!), but from a turnout perspective, of both racers and spectators, it was pretty dissapointing to say the least (which is pretty understandable given that 'stuff all' promo was done for the event).

...just hoping that this one will be a little better :)

This event is promoted by Ray Box and not WSID

Yes, I'm aware that Ray Box is 'promoting' the event which is great given his success with Jamboree, but what sort of actual promotion (i.e through media for example) is actually happening to attract spectators and competitors to this event?

Not having a go at anyone, I'm just genuinely curious...

Just to elaborate further on my post above, I think this event has the potential to be a success because it does have a lot going for it...

* It has a good naming sponsor in Toyo and therefore some decent prizes on offer which is a bonus

* Prizemoney should be a good incentive (for those who need it) to hopefully get a LOT of cars out there racing

* ProRWD is starting to get more competitive with Rotomaster's Camrydore set to challenge PAC's MX6 for outright ET/mph honors

* There's a lot of other stuff going on at the event (SnS, DB Sound Off etc) for those who aren't 100% obsessed just with drag racing

The thing that worries me is that I haven't heard a thing about the event through the media, haven't seen any advertising for the event, haven't got my usual mailout from WSID advising of the event and nor have I heard many people talking about it.

I haven't seen an entry list, so I'm not sure how many cars have entered (granted the event is still a few weeks away), I just hope there's a good turnout of competitors to put on a decent spectacle for the crowd.

I guess the point I'm trying to make is that this is a good opportunity for Sydney people to get into Sport Compact, I just hope the promoters really get out there (as best as they can) and make people aware of the event. Sport Compact is a great product, but it won't be a success if they don't get bums on seats and some good racing.

More info for those thinking about giving it a go -> SEE HERE :wub:

Flyers and posters started going up on friday night. Billy from SportCompactGroup was driving around sydney all weekend like a loony getting the word out there. From what I understand, expect radio as well.

I guess we have to stay tuned.

Adrian

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...