Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,,

well with the recent cold weather and our turbo cars going harder, ive got a Q...

how much damage will the spiking do late at night.

Example. during the day my car is set on 11psi (r32gtst) and when i was driving home tonight (around 13deg outside) it was hitting 13.5psi.... now i know the turbo will shit itself after 14, so should i be worried or is this a good thing, can someone explain the situation to me please :P

thanks

Ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/116937-late-night-boosting/
Share on other sites

Yeh i am getting spikes as well at night....

I had it set to 12 psi and it jumped to 15.5.

Car just started spluttering so i just turned it down.

I guess best thing to do is adjust it now that winter is coming to 9 psi on a normal day and you may jump up to 11.5 on a cold night....

What are you using to control boost?

Ive got the Turbotech controller.

An EBC would surely fix the problem?

Turbos don't just go "whoops, 14psi, better go bang" etc

Going that high will only encourage it to go bang. Any standard skyline turbo forced to make more boost than standard risks going bang.

As for the boost spiking... ITS BAD.

If you have a tune set to a certain psi and it spikes, this could potentioally lean out the motor and make the entire motor go bang.

If your spiking, wind your boost back, if you want your car to stay in one piece.

oh, and an electronic boost controller will help prevent spiking.

how long are you hitting full boost for on a cold night?

if its a drive home from work, probably never, maybe 5secs maximum over the course of a 15min trip

if you are worried, then don't sit at full boost for long. if you want to give it some stick, then drive mroe sedately afterwards

as someone already said, there's no program in the ECU that makes the turbo shit itself at 14psi.. its just one of many risk factors for the turbo going bye-bye

Same thing is happening to me, boosting close to 1kg/cm (on my 34 GTT stock gauge). Dont know how accurate this is though.

Can I electronic boost controller really control this? I always thought that the boost control was always limited to how the wastegate/actuator performs.

I have no boost controller installed, just a very hi flowing exhaust.

Kinda scared of blowing things up seeing as R34 turbos are very fragile, perhaps my stock boost guage is way innaccurate!?

when i installed my aftermarket gauge, i noticed that, yes it was easier to read as its large and in psi (rather than small and in mmHg)

but it responds exactly as the stock one does, and shows no difference in its reading

moral of the story: your stock gauge is FINE.

when i installed my aftermarket gauge, i noticed that, yes it was easier to read as its large and in psi (rather than small and in mmHg)

but it responds exactly as the stock one does, and shows no difference in its reading

moral of the story: your stock gauge is FINE.

Thats strange, prior to my full exhaust, it was reading 0.55kg/cm.

And after the exhaust, close to 1kg/cm.

I dont see how a full exhaust on a cold night can make almost double the boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...