Jump to content
SAU Community

Smoke From New Engine

Abo Bob

By Abo Bob,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Hey guys here is my issue,

On stone cold start ups only I get smoke out of the exhaust which I'm pretty sure is burning oil. It lasts about 3 minutes then goes away. Car runs fine otherwise. It's not condensation, there is enough smoke to fill the whole garage.

Engine is about 4000k's old.

Didn't get this smoke at run in or in the time after that before now. Basically I put some 10w60 oil in there for about 500km's cos that's all I had handy and that's when it started. I changed back to 10w40 and still the same. I thought maybe I had overfilled it but tried with less at last change and no difference.

My catch can doesn't go back into the intake.

I can't think of anything else atm.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117011-smoke-from-new-engine/
Share on other sites
danielson Proficient

danielson

Posted
Posted (edited)

if you boost up, does it go away? if so, could be valve guide seals. if it smokes more on boost, could have burnt oil rings..doubt the rings because it goes away...maybe your cooler is catching oil when motors not running, and suckn it in when you first start up. which means, turbo seals... OR etc etc etc..... check the plugs, this a wasy to see if its being burnt IN the engine or not

Edited by danielson
wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

If its blue smoke it doesn't sound good Adam. I dont think the oil has anything to do with it. Are you sure it goes away after warm up ?

Any blue smoke under hard ecceleration? Try going down a log hill in a suitable gear so it maintains speed at high rpm ( above 5000 if possible), whe you get to the bottom of the hill give it full throtle and watch at the rear for blue smoke. Watch your oil consumption closely to see if sge uses more than before .

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It definitely goes away and it's like a switch.

It goes:

Start engine, exhaust is normal for about 20-30 seconds then smoke comes out and it smells bad. About 3 minutes later it just stops completely.

I will try what you say Jerry. I'll also check out my intake pipes and cooler if possible.

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted

you mentioned putting 10w 60 in....i've been using 10w 60 since i got my car from japan, (7000kms ago) Castrol R 10W 60 went in at compliance, and again after 5000kms and my car has never blown any smoke...

just mentioning that as i dont see that oil being the cause of your problem :ermm:

wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

By what you say it sounds like you have oil sitting in the pipes and as soon as she burns it, she is fine. Where does the oil come from ? It could very well br the turbo seals leaking ever so little, oil drops in the dump and sits there until you start it up and burn it. The worry here is that its there ( smoke ) for 3 minutes !

I'm sure it wouldn't be stem seals ( not when you have just replaced them ). It shouldnt be the engine either, as its all new and the rings must have bedded in because you didnt have the smoke before. You can easily eliminate the engine by doing a leakdown test, any problems there will show up.

PHATR32 Grand Master

PHATR32

Posted
Posted

you sure it isnt the turbo? e.g oil leaks slowly from the seals while car is off, when you start the car, its takes 30 secs to start burning the oil, after 3 mins the oil is completly burnt out.

the leak could be so small, it wont cause any smoke while driving. but when you stop it starts collecting up in the exhaust side (or where ever)

steve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...