Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all!

I know this topic has come up before, and I have read them all, but I just need to clarify how would you know

if the ATTESSA-ETS system is working at optimal performance when you buy an R32 GTR?

What would be the signs of a healthy ATTESA-ETS system?

What would be the bad signs of a ATTESA-ETS system that is not working properly?

Cheers guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117257-r32-gtr-attesa-ets-testing/
Share on other sites

Well its easy to tell if the system is all OK, if not the ATTESA light will be on on the dash.

However its much harder to tell if it is really healthy, because even if the system is working fine the centre clutch packs do wear, the system will think it is giving front torque but the actual torque transmitted might be minimal.

If you get the car dynoed in 2WD, leave the dyno unlocked and re-install the fuse and try and drive off the dyno.

If the clutch packs are in good nick, the car will drive straight off. If they are worn or slipping, it will move off more slowly (or not at all).

A subjective test I know, but if the dyno operator sees a lot of GT-Rs, he'll have a pretty good idea.

That's good advice: I'll give it a try!

What wbout the torque gauge? If the needle is slow to pick up when you give it a bit, couldn't that be a sign of an unhealthy attesa system?

I heard a healthy system, snaps the needle quite fast to full front torque load under max rear slippage.

What are your views on bleeding the attesa-ets system? I have heard that corrects many of the problems associated with no or low torque conversion to the front.

How do you know when your clutch packs are wrecked?

All opinions welcome!

Edited by skylimit

Well if the torque gauge is moving slowly that suggests that it is not bleeding or the clutch packs....the gauge reflects what the system is trying to do.

Maybe your longitudinal accelerometer is failing? I've not come across that problem but it must be possible/

Well if the torque gauge is moving slowly that suggests that it is not bleeding or the clutch packs....the gauge reflects what the system is trying to do.

Maybe your longitudinal accelerometer is failing? I've not come across that problem but it must be possible/

The torque gauge actually has nothing to do with the mechanical side of the system. A completely stuffed transfer case will not be indicated by a lazy gauge, as the gauge signal is derived from an electrical output of the ATTESSA ECU it will still work, and should not be relied on.

We use a 80psi pressure gauge on the hydraulic line feeding the transfer case to make sure at least 50psi to 70psi (will vary depending on load) is present when front drive is operated. If this is ok then the transfer case is the problem (clutches worn or hydraulic actuator failure).

Hope this helps. :laugh:

The torque gauge actually has nothing to do with the mechanical side of the system. A completely stuffed transfer case will not be indicated by a lazy gauge, as the gauge signal is derived from an electrical output of the ATTESSA ECU it will still work, and should not be relied on.

We use a 80psi pressure gauge on the hydraulic line feeding the transfer case to make sure at least 50psi to 70psi (will vary depending on load) is present when front drive is operated. If this is ok then the transfer case is the problem (clutches worn or hydraulic actuator failure).

Hope this helps. :)

hey paul do u happen to have a pic of how u plumb in a pressure line off the main hydraulic line??? sounds like a damn good idea and worthwhile as i dont even have a torque split gauge in mine (stagea).

hey paul do u happen to have a pic of how u plumb in a pressure line off the main hydraulic line??? sounds like a damn good idea and worthwhile as i dont even have a torque split gauge in mine (stagea).

its a simple matter of installing a "T" fitting at the rear of the box where line attaches or getting Pirtek or any other reputable hose doctor to install one in the line and cap it off when not in use.

its a simple matter of installing a "T" fitting at the rear of the box where line attaches or getting Pirtek or any other reputable hose doctor to install one in the line and cap it off when not in use.

paul is 100 % correct and its the only real way to test it properly.

hey paul cheers for that, so a regular oil pressure guage will be fine with a 0-100psi readout or does the pressure go higher than 100psi?

also on the r32 system vs the later model ones that hold the pressure..

does that mean the r32 gtr would read 0 psi when not operating 4wd and r33 and 34's would still have how much pressure when in 2wd?

Edited by CruiseLiner
hey paul cheers for that, so a regular oil pressure guage will be fine with a 0-100psi readout or does the pressure go higher than 100psi?

also on the r32 system vs the later model ones that hold the pressure..

does that mean the r32 gtr would read 0 psi when not operating 4wd and r33 and 34's would still have how much pressure when in 2wd?

Yes a 0-100psi gauge will do the trick. As for holding pressure on the later models....its the preload on the clutch plates in the transfer case not the pressure applied to the ATTESSA hydraulic actuator (rear of transfer case) that is the problem on newer models (this is why you cannot dyno R33 + R34 models in 2 whell mode without removing driveshaft). You should have 0psi pressure when in 2wd mode.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...