Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If I am thinking right, this is a little cloth/fabric filter that sits ontop of the Cusco can. It looks like a little Apex cone pod.

You do know this is a defect. I would imagine that you get pulled over and the cops see the wisps of oil smoke curling off the top of the filter...

T.

actually, after the oil/air seperator has done with the crankcase vented air, it should be relatively free from oil if it's doing it's job right and plumbing it back to the intake on the car shoud be ok.

Ed... apparently not.... according to Scott who has a Cusco oil catch the air coming out is still relatively dirty.... Merli says the same thing.

I'd say the main purpose of the catch can would be to prevent the oil from going into the inlet after a HARD run... when you pop the hood of a car with a filter on their oil catch... if it were so clean why would it be steaming out crap?

Maybe the cusco ones aren't the best then?  

Don't let brand dedication affect your decisions

Cusco is cheap :shake:

But seriously.. I think the reason the air/oil isn't fully seperated is at that high temp its still slightly gaseous... hence you still will have a bit of oil in it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...