Jump to content
SAU Community

Help On Changin Injectors >.<

charlieR34
 Share

Recommended Posts

charlieR34 Collaborator

charlieR34

Posted
Posted

hey guys

need some good advice on what to do

well i just bought new injectors from here... and i looked at the engine and it looks like we have to take out the plenum to take out the fuel rails. does anyone here know that if we take out the plenum... will the gasket break or do we have to replace a new one. if it doesn't... then i can do a home job :D but if it does... i guess its more safer to get professionals to do it >.<

thx all in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117819-help-on-changin-injectors/
Share on other sites
Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
i did my one my self, i hated it, bastard of a job, but labours expensive!! u need a 12 or 14mm socket and extention to get to the bottom studs.. i used a ratchet spanner for the easier ones.. good luck

i was only charger $250 for the job :D if u shop around u can get some pretty ok pricers :D

danielson Proficient

danielson

Posted
Posted
dam $250 for labour... thats alot aye...

thx for the reply...

also... umm... the top half of the plenum... if u unscrew it... does it stuff up the gasket.. anyone know ?

no its a rubber gasket. as long as it isnt ripped etc, re use it

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

You dont need to take the plenum off.

I've swapped injectors in 2 different rb25's and an rb20, about all you need is a set of pliers and a 1/4 inch socket set and you can slide the rail out the front.

It's a bit easier if you remove the throttle body. It's a 2 hour job max, including removing the old injectors, installing the new ones and reinstalling the rail.

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Well going by your user name you have an R34.

The rail will not slide out the front without removing the plenum. It comes oh so close but I tried for ages and it wouldn't come. The gasket is not rubber either but if you're careful you can reuse it no worries.

There are 3 bolts holding it on from underneath and they are all bastards. You need a 1/4 inch drive socket set to get them out. I think they are 12mm but could be 10mm.

Impedance is an electrical term. Did you mean to use that? What injectors do you have and what engine?

gtr sleeper Enthusiast

gtr sleeper

Posted
Posted
Well going by your user name you have an R34.

The rail will not slide out the front without removing the plenum. It comes oh so close but I tried for ages and it wouldn't come. The gasket is not rubber either but if you're careful you can reuse it no worries.

There are 3 bolts holding it on from underneath and they are all bastards. You need a 1/4 inch drive socket set to get them out. I think they are 12mm but could be 10mm.

Impedance is an electrical term. Did you mean to use that? What injectors do you have and what engine?

yes i did because if the injectors are different the std ecu will not operate them properly, there is high impedance and low impedance injectors (99%sure of this?)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...