Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Been thinkin of gettin a body kit for my r33 s2 4door, but cant really find too many around. I was wondering does the 2 door body kits fit the 4 doors? Also like where would be the cheapest/best to get these bodykits. My mate has like given me some sites, but the range isnt 2 gr8. Help of any kind is thx!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118029-r33-4-door-bodykits/
Share on other sites

HiaTuS,

I have a white R33 S2 4-door just like you and am getting a lip kit fitted in the next week or so. It is similar to the standard kit that Nissan issue with their R33's, however this one is slightly fatter as its a copy taken from moulds. I've been told its a Nismo kit as its slightly different to the factory Nissan ones. I'll try to post pics once its fitted but you can speak to Paul at Autoworx or visit www.autoworx.com.au to view the items. It's a cheaper alternative than forking out on an entire kit as these are just an add on.

The kit consists of:

- Front T-chin lip spoiler

- Nismo style sideskirts

- Factory Nissan style rear pods

And as far as I know, series 1 and series 2 kits are the same for 4 door. ALthough the only difference being the front headlight design in relation to the front bar fitting on flush...

-Ed-

Yeah HiaTuS, what ED said is basically the story, I got my side skirts and rear pods from Autoworx at a decent price, waiting on a front lip now.

As long as the front bar is a S2 one it will fit fine, I don't think that a S1 one will fit somehow. The other issue is if you keep the front indicator/fog light assembly it may not go with another front bar, unless of course it's been designed to take the original light assembly.

I hunted around for something different but haven't found anything yet!

Ed I'd be interested in seeing pics when you have them! :woot:

Pulp, so its your car in the photos on the website? I'll post up some pics once Paul has fitted the kit.

(nice to know fellow S2 33 4 doorer's) Is anyone elses 5spd manual?

-Ed-

Yep thats mine! :D It's famous now!!

Yeah post em up when you do! So you managed to get a manual hey? I looked high and low for a S2 4 door manual, bloody rare!! :P

Nice pulp, and thx ed for the webby, i like the r33 s2 front bar lip on the skyline body kit page, and they do keep the foglights in sight. All s2 4 doors and 2 doors have the same front and back im guessing, so that means it should fit my car? $280 bucks aint 2 shabby either!

I think this looks nice, just no idea how to get it :ermm:

http://www.aero-eurou.com/AERO_print/AERO_SKYLINE_R33-4.html

Came across this website, think they have some kit and lips for 4Dr S2 R33

http://www.carmate.com/display_products.ph...eries%202%204Dr

Edited by Lezzare

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...