Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi to all,

i need some advice on a problem which by other post sounds quite common in 34's

let me first infom you what i have had done recently to my 34gtt $ 6500.00 later i have my turbo hiflowed with trust internals from GCG, 550 cc injectors, apexi power fc computer,full hks super drager exaust,front mount, dump pipe, runnin 16 psi,walbro 255 lt pump, only just put in thinking this may fix my problem.

ok here is my problem when at hi rpm say 3500 upwards and anything above 10 psi i get pap pap pap sound like a boost cut sound some times it runs good and some times it runs bad, it was tuned in brisbane and all went fine untill i return home I'm about 900 mtrs above sea level a bit colder temp as per say.

if anybody can help me with a solution or advice my mechainc says it now could be coil packs and recomends split fire items at a Cool $ 1000.00

any help would be great thanks heaps ...... :

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118341-bad-miss-at-hi-rpm/
Share on other sites

could be a coil pack issue.. i have the same thing happening

try dropping your spark plug gap to like 0.6mm and see if it helps

mmm good point, i will have to try that thanks...

it is set at 0.8 at the moment from 1.1

it is a pain in the butt hey...

Yep.

It's coil packs.

I wouldn't go much further than 0.8mm gap though.

Don't buy the Splitfires at $1000 though.

You should be able to get them for about $600 odd from Greenline, Nengun or Kudos Motorsport (group buy specialists who I got mine through).

Souonds like you have done the right stuff with your mods.

Where's you dyno chart? We want numbers!

Yep.

It's coil packs.

I wouldn't go much further than 0.8mm gap though.

Don't buy the Splitfires at $1000 though.

You should be able to get them for about $600 odd from Greenline, Nengun or Kudos Motorsport (group buy specialists who I got mine through).

Souonds like you have done the right stuff with your mods.

Where's you dyno chart? We want numbers!

thanks bass junky for the info,

did you get your coil packs local with local people or did you order them from an over seas mob and then sent to you. i looked at the 3 you said and i think kudos boys are local to order from gold coast i think..

any help on the matter .. im trying to get them in AU at the best price if possible. :D

thanks heaps

Gapping down the spark plugs is a cheap fix, it just makes the spark work across the plug because the path of least resistance again becomes the spark plug, rather than the block where the coilpack usually arcs out when they're not working properly. By gapping down the spark plug you're reducing the area of burn and this can be seen as an inefficent use of burning fuel. In the long run, you're much better off changing coil-packs and running the gap as close to 1.0 as you can.

Those of us who have been around a while have seen this exact problem many times. I could have told you the answer to your query just from the title of your thread.

If you gap them down to 0.6 the best you will have is a temporary solution.

Get the Splitfires and be done with it. Stock GTT coils are shit. $1000 is a rip off. Should be able to find them for around $600ish.

Oh and ditch that crappy fuel pump. You are playing with fire there. I'd hate to see you lose an engine through trying to save $100 on a the fuel pump. Someone with lower power aspirations will buy it off you as I would still recommend it up to about 230rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...