Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For the past two days I have spent my afternoon and evenings at the new dyno facility in Campbellfield called Drag Tag. When I first heard of the concept I thought it was a great story, hell was freezing over and cops where flying south for the winter.

Its hard to describe things that simply have never existed before, so the only way I can describe it is the best car game you have ever played but you use your own car.

Here’s how it works. Currently they have three operating cells. Each cell consists of a 4wd dyno to measure you cars power and breaking inputs, a state of the art laser system measuring the front wheels angle for steering inputs, a pneumatic clamp down system to hold the car on the dyno and a 260 degree screen in front of the dyno. The dyno and lasers are hooked up to 5 computers. These computers measure your cars inputs and relay them into a driving simulator that is projected on to the 260 degree screen with graphics and scenery comparable to any game on the market. You drive your car on to the dyno, put it in first gear let out the clutch and you start moving along a virtual road. Turn right and you move into the right lane, turn left and your back in the left lane. Keep turning left and you on the foot path. Give it some stick and you find your self quickly approaching a set of traffic lights that are red. When they turn green you can go. This is your opportunity to do what you’ve always wanted to do early on a Sunday when no one is one the road. Floor it. So you dump the clutch and wheel spin of the line screeching all the way. Grab second with a little chirp and then she hooks up and your off, you grab 3 and you are hurdling down a deserted road out the back of an industrial lot and stuff is starting to move real fast. Grab forth gear and the car is starting to wonder over the road a little but that’s all good you just steer out of it. FLASH shit you’ve been done by a speed camera. Well that’s what I thought anyway. That actually means you’ve just run a quarter mile. All of a sudden the scenery disappears and all your cars stats come up on the screen, power, torque, reaction time, 60 foot, ET and how you positioned against the guy in the cell next to you in his WRX. All the scores get recorded and compared against everyone ells on the day and every one ells that’s competed in the past.

This is virtual racing in your own car, using its power and your driving ability. Its not just limited to drag racing either. You can race around circuits, rally driving and the soon to be developed drifting. The days of you and your mates jumping in a row of Daytona games are over. Now you can still race against each other but now its in your own cars, three wide, with no risk.

Currently they are having free open nights on Wednesday and Thursdays. The last one I believe is next Wednesday and Thursday. This is your last chance to see what its all about for free.

As I said I was there tonight and I couldn’t help picturing SAU vs WRX club drag tag.

I highly recommend you check it out and that the club looks in to having a Dag Tag event.

www.dragtag.com.au

Cheers,

Adam

p.s. All your stats get posted on the net too.

Here are mine

Car Stats - DRIF6

Drive Stats

Edited by Adz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118467-drag-tag/
Share on other sites

60ft of 1.34 secs... you running slicks on that thing Adam? :D

I heard rumours you were out there checking it all out heheh

Na no slicks. Just did a big dirty clutch dump in 2nd from a stand still to get some heat in to the tyres and dyno.

Yeha been there the last couple of nights.

Edited by Adz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118467-drag-tag/#findComment-2180688
Share on other sites

it may be accurate, just tell you what your car is 'capable' of but a little unrealistic...

i noticed the guy i bought my car off said he had something to do with dragtag, he has the VCMSuite Monaro on the register running flat 11's... it is a Supercharged LS2 but have a look at his 60 times!!! 1.2 sec?? i doubt it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118467-drag-tag/#findComment-2181142
Share on other sites

The 60' component is the only thing that needs work. It effects the incrementals but the end results (1/4 ET and TS are very accurate.)

There is already a thread discussing this with Russel from Drag Tag a member of SAU.

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118467-drag-tag/#findComment-2181215
Share on other sites

ill be sold when i see a car that has consistent times down real drag strips getting the same figures on dragtag...

If the 60 foot time is out, how can the 1/4 be accurate??

Goin by my calculation, (correct me if im wrong) That monaro ran a flat 11 with 117mph... Does not seem right at all.. it should have massive top end with a blown 6 litre.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118467-drag-tag/#findComment-2181220
Share on other sites

something i'd be worried about would be things while drifting or curcuit racing would be feeling the weight of the car lean, and the g forces involved, it cld end up being a one handed affair, and then the people end up racing at a real track and come into grief ...

there is no substitute for reality

but hey, this mite make calder n heathcote charge less

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118467-drag-tag/#findComment-2185481
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...