Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

remote Breather tanks for radiators ..

already running a PWR 40mm radiator but she still bubbles a little after getting hot ..

d1specheadtank.jpg

are kits like this useful on systems that already run header tanks with the presuure caps?

only ever seen them on sealed cross flow units..

any ideas??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118629-remote-breather-tanks-on-radiators/
Share on other sites

Hey Chris,

I got one of these installed; main reason for it is to remove air locks which it is doing just fine.

My tank is setup where the stock charcoal cannister is and does the job pretty well!

NB: There is a T-Piece that you require in order to make the product you've shown work, it's not included!!!

S

oh, i thought u already had one. how come the plenum now stops you from bleeding the cooling system?(never done any cooling system work on 33's maself) i cant really see how they would be of much benefit on a system that already has a header tank with pressure cap though.. basically, they do the same job. does the factory header tank have any form of 'breather'? if not then this might do sumthin for you

Hey Chris,

I got one of these installed; main reason for it is to remove air locks which it is doing just fine.

My tank is setup where the stock charcoal cannister is and does the job pretty well!

NB: There is a T-Piece that you require in order to make the product you've shown work, it's not included!!!

S

hmm would like to see how its hooked up, cant really picture it... does it pull a water feed from somewhere like where the std water bleed is?

oh, i thought u already had one. how come the plenum now stops you from bleeding the cooling system?(never done any cooling system work on 33's maself) i cant really see how they would be of much benefit on a system that already has a header tank with pressure cap though.. basically, they do the same job. does the factory header tank have any form of 'breather'? if not then this might do sumthin for you

the front facing plenum relocates the TB, and since it dont really snow here i didn't run the water feed through the throttle body .. hence its removal..

Edited by Craved

The tank is situated in between the overflow tank and the radiator... in total I think there are 4 lines coming off the thing, 2 going back into the radiator (well one from and one back to)

The other hoses then go to the over flow and one has a one way air bleeding cap (trying to be descriptive)... it lets air out but not coolant (?!?)

Not 100% sure, the boys put it in and said it works :wave: I'm happy and was content with a 80% understanding :wub:

hahah once i see it i will get it fine..

can see where the return from the tank to the radiator would enter the cooling system as the pressure cap on the radiator wouldn't allow water back in very much.

got a picture Stan?

bleeding air from the system is extremely important - more so than people generally think. air in the cooling system is a killer and will turn the block into a kettle - particularly when we have lengthy 6 cyl engines and there is a significant temp differential between the front of the block and the rear as the water from the radiator only enters at the front.

some aftermarket chevy heads now have cooolant take offs half way down the side of the head for that reason - more even core temp means more consistent combustion and more efficiency.

the breather tank is probably a good idea in a high hp engine, one that operates at higher temps for long periods or one that has no bleeder :O make sure it's at the highest point of the cooling system otherwise it just acts as an extension of the water jacket and, instead of turning steam into condensation will recirc the steam.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...