Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does any body know if a rough idle can be caused by leaking intercooler pipes. Because my 32 is idle ing up n down between 500-2000 on and off. and if u hold it on around 2500 it has a miss occasionally. Can stale fuel cause this also as my car has been sitting for the last 3 months. any held wuld be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118959-rough-idle-intercooler-leak/
Share on other sites

Does it ever stall out on you at lights or pulling up somewhere and stopping?

or just rough idle?

i think there is a diy article on how to reset your computer idle and base idle, there are 2 different settings if im not mistaken.

cheers mate

if it idles like that how does it drive when you accelerate?

is it drivable?

does it rev out and boost properly?

I jsut recently had a problem where the car would cut out.

nd occasionally rev between 500 - 2000 rpm.

my issue turned out to be a dirty air flow meter.

I took the AFM off the car (1 plug 1 clamp and 4 bolts) and sprayed the inside of the AFm with degreaser then washed it out.

shook it dry then dried it out properly with a hair dryer.

now it workds great, idles better than it ever did and revs out clean.

it is also smoother to drive.

might be worth a check if you havn't already done so

Could be the case of a stuffed BOV..

is yours the stock one? or some aftermarket vented BOV?

If its an aftermarket one, it could have ceased up and letting air come into the motor before the AFM gets to read it when your idling hence causing the car to stall

Edited by johnnilicte

or if your bov is the stock one and you have vented it to atmo then it could be leaking. we took the plumb back hose of my mates 33 on the weekend and it wouldn't idle unless we put our hand over the bov to stop it leaking. and mine does the same thing. we plug up the plumb back hose and it won't idle unless we plug up the bov as well cause it was leaking like a $2 hooker. both bovs dump ok and don't leak boost under revs but they leak at idle when not plumbed back. any ideas why?

i'm looking at upgrading it to an aftermarket plumb back.

Edited by mad082
Does any body know if a rough idle can be caused by leaking intercooler pipes. Because my 32 is idle ing up n down between 500-2000 on and off. and if u hold it on around 2500 it has a miss occasionally. Can stale fuel cause this also as my car has been sitting for the last 3 months. any held wuld be great.

Mine did this after I got it back from a respray. They had it for 3months and it apparently hadn't been started the whole time, simply pushed around.

Mine idled like crap, blew lots of black smoke and had to be held up around 2500-3000rpm otherwise it would stall.

Eventually it came good, unsure exactly what it was but approx 6months later the injectors died, they began stalling the car when cold, it was really difficult to start when cold and a flat spot could be felt on the tip of the accelerator, the flat spot was much worse when cold. I wasn't able to touch the accelerator if it was idling ok as it would cause it to stall instantly. Fuel consumption was bad also.

Replaced injectors, fuel consumption instantly awesome and no starting problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Will have a look at that. I cant see any leaks 
    • Put another overflow bottle (ie, a 1.25 coke bottle or similar) under the overflow hose and see if it is being pushed out there or if it is disappearing into the engine.
    • Staring on a stand is no issue. You just have to wire everything up, give it fuel and cross your fingers that the stand is robust enough. Arranging the inlet plumbing is often the hardest part, without any surrounding structure to hand some of it from. No need for coolant if you only want to run it for <1 minute. As to the gearbox - I think the little Aisin box is a bit stronger than the other small Nissan boxes that went behind SRs, but I wouldn't be too keen to test its limits with the torque of a boosted 25. I don't know if you can retain the box and the tailshaft. The box won't connect to the RB without an adapter of some sort, which is either a plate that will push the engine forward (which is not good for fitting it into the bay's available space) or push the box back, which messes with the box position and tailshaft length - OR - cut and shut work on the bellhousing, which is a long way from "least modification". I'd be buying a new 370Z 6 speed or similar, doing what has to be done to that to make it fit RB (ie, cut and shut bellhousing) and the requisite tailshaft custom/mods.
    • Hi Everyone I am from West Pennant Hills in NSW. Been too busy until recently to attend to my RB25DET Series 2 engine until recently. I am planning to stick it into the S15 shell at this stage, unless a nice SR20DET turns up... For now, i am going to try and get the RB25 running and working well then decide what gearbox to use. My preference is to retain the SR20DET  6 speed gearbox and tail shaft to retain as much and least modifications as i can avoid. I am an old guy and won't be doing any heavy drifting so i don't need a bullet proof gearbox Does anyone have experience with starting the RB on a stand? I got everything setup as much as I can with the info i can find... endless searching and videos on Youtube I would be great to get some pointers Cheers Songo
    • Hey all, Recently have had my s1 r33 gtr serviced and noticed my coolant reservoir was topped up to the max line. Took the car out for 1 yesterday and noticed today the reservoir is completely empty.  Any ideas? Radiator is full
×
×
  • Create New...