Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well after much research I've actually decided against the lightweight flywheel. I'm glad you started this whole flywheel issue up Brad! :)

I've spoken to a number of people in the business of street drag style cars, & I've also read up a bit more on various internet sites. Even Tim (ex RPM owner/ horsepowerinabox head honcho) suggested I stick with the stock flywheel weight.

Here's how it was explained to me - The engine starts @ high rpm for the launch in a drag run & doesn't drop more than ~2000rpm throughout the run. This means that the quicker reving light flywheel doesn't really come into play anyway as you're already @ rev's on launch & will remain at high rev's. The gains in quicker response are counted by the faster drop in rev's on gear changes. The light flywheel also means the "perfect launch" becomes harder to achieve as the rev's will drop quicker making the likelyhood of bogging increase.

The above probably isn't worded all that well but hopefully it makes some sense?

For track racing & general street use I believe the gains in response are well worth fitting a light weight f/wheel, but if quick ET's are you're goal then the torque benefits of the heavier f/wheel on launch are of more use.

  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hes spot on about the standard weight flywheel. Most drag racing ppl would tell u the same. Lightened flywheels r for street and mallala. As he said the revs r up from the word go and u wouldnt drop more than 2000rpm between gears so it makes sense. btw make sure u get flywheel balanced with the new clutch and mark its position. Otherwise u might get some bad vibrations :[

I had lengthy conversations with a quite a few "players" in the street car drag scene. ALL of them gave me the same advice - stick with the stock weight flywheel. I think that says something! A number of respectable performance flywheel manufacturers also said the same thing. These people "could" have made an easy sale by telling me "yeah it'll make a huge difference" but they told me what they honestly believed.

*Remember - this is looking at it from a pure street car drag perspective*

I put the money saved on not getting the light f/wheel towards a 2 line handset for my Microtech (wanted some real time engine stat's without having to hook up the laptop) I might install a shift light too?

whatsisname if your really pulling 257rwk on 13psi and you can only run a 13sec 1/4 mile

aren't you ashamed of your car's lack of performance, my car car is being built up to make 330rwk on 20 psi but prior i made 260rwk and i ran a 11.3 1/4 mile maybe you should check who's dyno your using sounds like your figures and math just dont calculate .

Originally posted by 2.5

whatsisname if your really pulling 257rwk on 13psi and you can only run a 13sec 1/4 mile  

aren't you ashamed of your car's lack of performance, my car car is being built up to make 330rwk on 20 psi but prior i made 260rwk and i ran a 11.3 1/4 mile maybe you should check who's dyno your using sounds like your figures and math just dont calculate .

I actually couldn't give a rats arse what rwkw figure my car makes to be honest. I merely add this info in my sig' as a reference to MY latest efforts. Be they 1/4 or dyno related.

I agree whole heartedly with you that my ET is shit considering the rwkw reading (that's what the dyno spat out & that's what boost it was running) but do you really think that just off 116mph TS on a 2.667 60ft is a good indictation that 13's are the MAXIMUM potential of my car? I've had runs vs cars that have pulled low 12's or even dipped into the high 11's yet the TS isn't much higher than mine. Doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure out how good they 60ft'ed!

The 1/4 passes in my sig' were run on 17' road tyres & with a badly slipping clutch. In fact I had to drive off the line @ 3000rpm. Anymore rev's & the clutch simply let go causing the engine hit the limiter. My car is by no means a drag car.

When I have drag raced my car I've done it every day trim. Nothing is removed not even the spare & wheel jack. I don't drop my tyre pressures @ all (32psi) In short, I simply hop in the car, head to the servo, fill up & run it as is. Why do I do things this way? Because I can. At the end of the day my rwkw reading may well be seriously inflated - if it bothers you that much I can certainly remove the reference to it in my sig'.

Good on you for running 11.3 with 260rwkw, & goodluck with 330rwkw on 20psi. I'm happy for you.

Out of interest what set-up did you run your 11.3 on? As in what tyres did you use, what gearing -auto/manual, what fuel & so on... What was the 60ft & TS on your 11.3 with 260rwkw pass? Oh & which track?

Cheers,

Matt

good response .... we 'old members' wub joo Matt :D .... I'm sure when u get it all together next weekend you will be doing very low 12s and hopefully even break into the 11s! Hope your clutch is good .... got my beast back today and the clutch is excellent (for a single plater) .... I have nearly stalled it a bunch of times already though!

It's gonna be a nice cool night for the cruise and no rain in sight (at this stage). EVERYONE better be there!!!

So have we decided on a definite meeting point?

Originally posted by 2.5

i'm in put me down for two car positions

what time and date

You can bring as many cars as you like. The time & date - Time: starts @ 4pm, racing from 5pm till 10.30ish Date - ummm... did you read the thread topic?

Awwww shucks...... right back at ya' big fella. I loves ya's all :D

I'll be happy with anything in the 12's :)

Yeah I've got my clutch sitting in the garage. Fitting it Friday. I ended up going with a single plate too - 9 puck cushion button ceramic & 2400lbs pressure plate. Nothing too Xtreme ;) Fitted a Pivot shift light tonight too. Works well :) The final latest addition was suppose to arrive today (friday now :() A 2 line handset for the LT12, so I can have all the basic engine info at hand all the time. Should be interesting to see how effective the FMIC is at dropping inlet temps before & after the run?

You shouldn't have any worries bedding that clutch in before the 5th mate. Just don't wear it out before hand :P

Originally posted by Nightcrawler

good response .... we 'old members' wub joo Matt :D .... I'm sure when u get it all together next weekend you will be doing very low 12s and hopefully even break into the 11s! Hope your clutch is good .... got my beast back today and the clutch is excellent (for a single plater) .... I have nearly stalled it a bunch of times already though!

It's gonna be a nice cool night for the cruise and no rain in sight (at this stage). EVERYONE better be there!!!

So have we decided on a definite meeting point?

Yeah... we dont care if your car runs a 28.5 down the quarter mile whatsisname .. we love ya...

bah to 2.5 (newbie!)

OMG.. NOOOOOOOO the drags are on the 5th right?? damn damn damn, i got a wedding to go to that day/night.. and its IMPOSSIBLE to get out of.

/me wipes tear from eye....

Thanks Cheeky :D

Wedding or the drags? Go the wedding!

Ahhh don't worry Erica we'll take your car down & run it for you ;) Don't worry we'll get Munro to drive it for ya', 'cause ya' know he drives like a nanna' :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...