Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Question for a technicla person should they see this...or maybe a research project for bored people

HKS 2835 with the .63 housing

Garrett GT30R with the .63 housing

What is the difference is spool up times going to be?

ill dig up some compressor & turbine maps :huh:

Based on that scientific advice I will thke the GT30 :huh:

Then run it at 20psi and see what I make!....apart from brown undies lol

i was just gonna ask how much boost u looking to run in it? Also wats ur rev limiter?

GT3071R-700382-3

Compressor -

IND - 53.1mm

EXD - 71.0mm

Trim - 56

A/R - 0.50

Turbine -

Wh Dia - 56.5mm

Trim 84

A/R - 0.64

HKS 2835

Compressor -

IND - 51.2mm

EXD - 71mm

Trim - 52

Housing - GT35

CFM - 608 MAX

Turbine -

Trim - GT28

EXD - 51.8mm

IND - 56.5mm

Flange - T25

Housing - 0.61 or 0.73

The HKS info was taken from this site: http://www.ztechz.net/id1.html

From that info id have to say the 2835 would be slighter better. Having a smaller comrpessor wheel aids in spooltime, but i dont know how the Trim affects things. Also given the fact that HKS turbo's are 'known' to perform better at their peak (read effiiency) id go for the 2835, thats if u dont mind spending 3k on a turbo :huh:. Also i dont know if that HKS info is actually 100% accurate, as the site it came from isnt a 'genuine hks site' so it could be out.

Also, i think the best way to go about choosing a new turbo, would be to have a power figure in mind, boost level u want to run, and then u can work out ur flow and then by looking at turbo maps (compressor & turbine) u can correctly choose the best turbo for ur application :huh:

Actually, bugger it, ill make a phone call and get some definate info, as i need to figure out what turbos i can run.

i was just gonna ask how much boost u looking to run in it? Also wats ur rev limiter?

20-25psi and lets be safe and say 8000

hey andy.....

i remembered you said somethin about not bein able to replace it till friday if we didnt do it the other night.

can come around tonight before i make my way to shanes????

You can come and pick it up tonight and swap it yourself and bring the black one back later? Cause I def wont be home tonight

Also, i think the best way to go about choosing a new turbo, would be to have a power figure in mind, boost level u want to run, and then u can work out ur flow and then by looking at turbo maps (compressor & turbine) u can correctly choose the best turbo for ur application :huh:

Actually, bugger it, ill make a phone call and get some definate info, as i need to figure out what turbos i can run.

20psi for about 260-280 rwkw Would be ideal I guess

That will be nearly at its limit if you get 280atrw.

it'd be past its 'limit' with a 20% drivetrain loss at 280rwkw. But it'd be good for 260rwkw. A turbo is best run at its 'peak' so u get the most out of it. I'd need to do some calcs and then look at some compressor maps, and i dont really have the time now. I'll have a play at lunch though.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 😆 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 🙂 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
×
×
  • Create New...