Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From time to time I run n00b style.

fair enough.. the 11,000+ posts and the "rb26de" has no way to give away your not..

guess it could just mean you dribble a lot of shit..

/shrugs

lol fair enough

how many cars u got there u work on?

We only have 3 as dad sold the swift and BMW last week. Which isn’t too bad, normally it’s 4 – 5 of just our own cars.

Friends just kinda leave there cars here to get shit done, or to do shit as their newbs with no idea. We would have to be the worst neighbours :)

fair enough.. the 11,000+ posts and the "rb26de" has no way to give away your not..

guess it could just mean you dribble a lot of shit..

/shrugs

Your 2007 so GTFO newb.

Dribble shit? Well this is whore town after all. If your referring to other post’s in other threads, I’m a total tool towards certain people as I can afford to be, I’m kinda, a big deal :sorcerer:

We only have 3 as dad sold the swift and BMW last week. Which isn’t too bad, normally it’s 4 – 5 of just our own cars.

Friends just kinda leave there cars here to get shit done, or to do shit as their newbs with no idea. We would have to be the worst neighbours :)

rofl noice

i remember i was up the back working on my car until 4am once, tmie just flew by and i was using the drill press, grinder and everything :D no complaints either *shrugs*

rofl noice

i remember i was up the back working on my car until 4am once, tmie just flew by and i was using the drill press, grinder and everything :) no complaints either *shrugs*

Lucky, I’m semi tempted to start and convince dad its semi rural residential time, this 700msq block business with neighbours all round is quite annoying.

lazy ass....

Shane you live in Ipswich and on a main road sif anybody can complain :)

i know, but there is this whinging old fark over the back from us that use to complain, until i told him to fark off or i would poison his dogs :D

lazy ass....

Shane you live in Ipswich and on a main road sif anybody can complain :)

Yeh i went for a search and saw his thread.

option is, you wana keep the car? go buy a alloy rad. Siff f**k around with POS plastic header tanks and bee's dick size nissan cores.

i know, but there is this whinging old fark over the back from us that use to complain, until i told him to fark off or i would poison his dogs :)

We have old people behind us like that; they gave up and just added half a metre of so to the fence hight, like we care makes it better for us haha!

Edited by Nismo_Boy
Yeh i went for a search and saw his thread.

option is, you wana keep the car? go buy a alloy rad. Siff f**k around with POS plastic header tanks and bee's dick size nissan cores.

so u find, now u can link me up :)

i know, but there is this whinging old fark over the back from us that use to complain, until i told him to fark off or i would poison his dogs :)

:D

your on msn and not even talking to me you Cucken Funt!!

lol i should of just eaten the dam mut and tossed the skin back over the fence...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...