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Even totally warm, it takes probably 7 cranks to start. The old VL used to start at the flick of the key :\ tuner assures me it's totally normal though.

It is normal for the pfc's default values paired up with the rb30det, warm it should start instantly, cold it will take 2 turns or so. Well with the values below at least.

Here's the values I'm running now.

+80 - 10

+50 - 14

+30 - 22

+10 - 30

These values worked fine with the std rb20det injectors and gtr injectors.

All though cold starts 'could' be improved at least they start the car fairly well, not 7cranks. :D

I must say my Skyline has never started as well as my old VL. The vl was instant.

That sounds like a similar problem, thanks - should the AFM voltage be doing funny things when it is stuffing up?

You won't be able to tell the condition of the AFM by testing the voltages in this case. The voltages can read fine but the AFM can still be fubar. You need to get your hands on a swapsy.

It is normal for the pfc's default values paired up with the rb30det, warm it should start instantly, cold it will take 2 turns or so. Well with the values below at least.

Here's the values I'm running now.

+80 - 10

+50 - 14

+30 - 22

+10 - 30

These values worked fine with the std rb20det injectors and gtr injectors.

All though cold starts 'could' be improved at least they start the car fairly well, not 7cranks. :dry:

I must say my Skyline has never started as well as my old VL. The vl was instant.

Great help - thanks joel. :D

Will have a tweak over the next couple of days, because it really is a bit rediculous. I know if I had a close to flat battery and had to start this one in the morning I'd be buggered! Whereas my other VL will start cold instantly, all it needs is one crank and it's on, was the same on this one as well before I did the conversion.

haha well unfortunatly i had to get up in a rush to move my car for my housemate to leave for work, so my plan to put them in this morning was foiled :D

Will aim for tomorrow morning!

edit: this is probably a stupid question, but what exactly are we adjusting with the 'ms' ?

Edited by platinum

Those cranking values worked awesome - thank you so much! :D

Water temperature was 9 degrees this morning, and it turned over within about 2 cranks.

Now to take apart the AFM tonight and see if that fixes the other issue.

Which value did you use for the +10?

I now have mine at 35ms and very happy with the way it starts.

I've found a couple of little bugs in the pfc that I find it hard to replicate.

If I start the car and accidently touch the accel. while doing so OR almost stalling the car straight after starting the pfc appears to forget exactly where to apply the fuel cut.

It doesn't always do this but when doing the above is the only time when it may.

I slightly raise rpm and it fuel cuts until idle rpm then raises rpm again then fuel cuts.

Driving the car when its like this causes the car to jerk and cut out horribly giving you the feeling its going to stall, but it wont. :)

The fix.. Pull over, turn the car off and restart it. Drive off and its fine. As I said it only appears to do it when I do one of: Touch the accel while starting, or 'almost' stalling the car almost immediately after starting the car.

I came across the stalling the car bug when I had set the water temp correction maps too lean causing the car to almost stall when taking off at low rpm.

Unsure if other pfc's do it but my ap engineering one sure does. :D

This morning coolant temps were 10degree's.

I pushed the +10 up to 35ms, it took ~1second of turning over for it to spring in to life. There was no spluttering just a nice vrooom up to 1500rpm. :D

So the values helped?

i'll have to have a fiddle with mine, i'll try these settings!

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