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Broke Another Turbo!

arsnik

By arsnik,
in Tasmania

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arsnik Explorer

arsnik

Posted
Posted

Hey all

as the title said broke another standard r32 turbo same as last time turbine wheel completely missing broke off shaft. Thought the first one could of broke because of my car missing n had no tip on the 1st spark plug and that going straight through it. As for the 2nd one i have no idea why it was pretty much perfect when i bought it off todd and lost boost 2 weeks later n pulled the turbo off today to find no turbine wheel again and everything else seems to be fine didnt really take it past 5000rpm in the 2 weeks it was on and didnt start missing once.

Any one with any ideas would be greatly aprreciated

cheers Arsnik

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CATKICKER Mentor

CATKICKER

Posted
Posted

oh no!!! not another one!

Are you missing another plug tip?

Might be time to get someone to look at it... especially since it has been driving fine, I am not sure what it would be but I will have a think! ...maybe extreme detination... hmmm that is if you are missing a tip again.

JaFF Proficient

JaFF

Posted
Posted
Somtimes shit happens...... ya know.

Check your oil and water feed/drain lines?

Or get a new turbo? ( can supply KKR 430 for $850 plus shipping, comes with a 12 month warranty)

These need modifications to oil lines and a different manifold too though yeah? ends up being more like $1500 by the time you're finished.

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

there is KKR430 turbos going for $600 buy now or $490 for auction on eBay. Have a look simply tupe in KKr430 in reach. you will need a dump pipe to suit ($190) but the turbo mounts onto any T3 flange. Simply rotate the housing to suit. The wastegate actuator rod may need to be bent a littel for clerance.

CATKICKER Mentor

CATKICKER

Posted
Posted

If I was him I would want to be sure it was not going to happen again!

somehow the same thing happens to 2 turbos and then you try and fix it by putting in a $1000-$1500 turbo and hope it doesn't happen again??? hmmmmm

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted
These need modifications to oil lines and a different manifold too though yeah? ends up being more like $1500 by the time you're finished.
there is KKR430 turbos going for $600 buy now or $490 for auction on eBay. Have a look simply tupe in KKr430 in reach. you will need a dump pipe to suit ($190) but the turbo mounts onto any T3 flange. Simply rotate the housing to suit. The wastegate actuator rod may need to be bent a littel for clerance.

KKR430, you will use your origional oil feed and drain lines, you will need to reloop your water lines, the turbo will bolt up to your stock manifold, you will need to releave a little part of the heat sheild as it will hit the commpressor housing, you'll need to rotate the housings to suit, (this only takes about 10min), then modify the actator arm a little so it works properly. It comes with the v-band and female exaust v-band flange, you'll need to get a dump pipe made ( $50 from mild steel tops ), you'll also need to purchase a 90 degree rubber bend to go from the compressor outlet to your origional cooler pipe work. The only other thing you'll need to do is cut 15-20mm off the end of the rubber intake hose so it goes over the commpresor inlet. Hey presto!

The "KKR" turbo's on ebay are not purchased from the KKR distributor in Aus, I just spoke to him. Proably the same as all the Garret Copies.

J

JaFF Proficient

JaFF

Posted
Posted

nice, thanks for that. Does your distributor have any dyno graphs on the kkr 430 on a RB25? I know there is a larger model which is better suited for more power but it's a bit laggy from what i've seen. I've been trying to find a graph of a kkr430 on a RB25 for a while but with no luck.

Cheers,

James

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted
nice, thanks for that. Does your distributor have any dyno graphs on the kkr 430 on a RB25? I know there is a larger model which is better suited for more power but it's a bit laggy from what i've seen. I've been trying to find a graph of a kkr430 on a RB25 for a while but with no luck.

Cheers,

James

I'll see what he has there. I used on on my G.F. r32 gts-t, it was less laggy than a stock 25 turbo in my opinion. Probably only 200 to 400 rpm difference in response to the stock turbo.

arsnik Explorer

arsnik

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey all.

got it worked out i have a r33 series 2 turbo coming so all good turbo wise.

and all that it is was the oil that was used in my oil changed a few months ago was way too thick on cold starts (which is when the turbo's failed) it snaped the ceramic wheel off the back because it wasnt getting enough or any oil to the bearing there fore heating it up and cracking the cermic n braking the wheel off the back of it..

So for future reference check the type of oil that gets put in your car.

cheers for your replies

Arsnik

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
Hey all.

got it worked out i have a r33 series 2 turbo coming so all good turbo wise.

and all that it is was the oil that was used in my oil changed a few months ago was way too thick on cold starts (which is when the turbo's failed) it snaped the ceramic wheel off the back because it wasnt getting enough or any oil to the bearing there fore heating it up and cracking the cermic n braking the wheel off the back of it..

So for future reference check the type of oil that gets put in your car.

cheers for your replies

Arsnik

hey Nick

glad you got the problem sorted and new turbo on its way.

Just out of curiousity what oil were you using???

Cheers GMB

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
it was that new castrol edge stuff 10W-60W.

i did some looking around thinking i will be using motul turbo which is 10W-40W

Yeah the turbo light is the best bang for buck these days.

You will find that most of the guys run there liners on it as its a little thicker.

Good luck with this turbo, hopefully it lasts a bit longer :D

Cheers GMB

-Totenkopf- Enthusiast

-Totenkopf-

Posted
Posted
Yeah the turbo light is the best bang for buck these days.

You will find that most of the guys run there liners on it as its a little thicker.

Good luck with this turbo, hopefully it lasts a bit longer :D

Cheers GMB

Shit, I was using that castrol 10w-60 shit and my gt35r just died, bearing failure...

A quick question, was there any other noticable damage to your engine due to using such a thick oil? I've only been running this stuff for about 2-3000km.

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
Shit, I was using that castrol 10w-60 shit and my gt35r just died, bearing failure...

A quick question, was there any other noticable damage to your engine due to using such a thick oil? I've only been running this stuff for about 2-3000km.

Like Nick pointed out the thicker oil can cause the problem's with cold starts (more so with bigger, aftermarket turbo's) and thats what leads to the damage.

You shouldn't see any other damage from using the thicker stuff for that short period of time unless something else was/has already gone wrong.

Are you 100% sure it was a bearing failure (checked it already???)

DO a compression test and see how the old girl is doing, (if motor is back running) it should be fine but better safe than sorry!!!

Otherwise if you have done a bearing you will be doing a rebuild so you can check everything then :D

Cheers GMB

-Totenkopf- Enthusiast

-Totenkopf-

Posted
Posted
Like Nick pointed out the thicker oil can cause the problem's with cold starts (more so with bigger, aftermarket turbo's) and thats what leads to the damage.

You shouldn't see any other damage from using the thicker stuff for that short period of time unless something else was/has already gone wrong.

Are you 100% sure it was a bearing failure (checked it already???)

DO a compression test and see how the old girl is doing, (if motor is back running) it should be fine but better safe than sorry!!!

Otherwise if you have done a bearing you will be doing a rebuild so you can check everything then :D

Cheers GMB

It was bearing failure in the turbo itself. You can see the remainder of what appears to be the exhaust side bearing casing moving upa nd down the shaft when you look into the oil return.

Had to drive for about 200km with the turbo shitting itself, started off with intermittent whining then about 30km before I got home it was a constant whine whenever on the throttle.

Did a compression test the night before I did the 500km the following day, came up with 150psi in all 4 cylinders (yes 4, my car is a 93 model Toyota MR2 turbo.) did a compression test shortly after buying the car where I also got 150psi across all 4, so there was no change there. I was noticing excessive noise from turbo when car was cold before the turbo died all together, like if I started it up int he morning for 30seconds-1minute, and shut it down, the turbo would grumble and growl and gritt as it spun down.

Anyway, RIP turbocharger, will be using thinner oil in future. It was on special at the time thats why I grabbed it :D

arsnik Explorer

arsnik

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey.

All that happened to my car was the bearing the engine is pretty much perfect by the sounds of it even thought i havnt done a compresion test but the only thing i would be doing is to check all your oil lines like toffy said mine where fine but never know.

and im hoping this turbo will b the last for a while

cheers nick

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