Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

as the title said broke another standard r32 turbo same as last time turbine wheel completely missing broke off shaft. Thought the first one could of broke because of my car missing n had no tip on the 1st spark plug and that going straight through it. As for the 2nd one i have no idea why it was pretty much perfect when i bought it off todd and lost boost 2 weeks later n pulled the turbo off today to find no turbine wheel again and everything else seems to be fine didnt really take it past 5000rpm in the 2 weeks it was on and didnt start missing once.

Any one with any ideas would be greatly aprreciated

cheers Arsnik

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119875-broke-another-turbo/
Share on other sites

oh no!!! not another one!

Are you missing another plug tip?

Might be time to get someone to look at it... especially since it has been driving fine, I am not sure what it would be but I will have a think! ...maybe extreme detination... hmmm that is if you are missing a tip again.

Somtimes shit happens...... ya know.

Check your oil and water feed/drain lines?

Or get a new turbo? ( can supply KKR 430 for $850 plus shipping, comes with a 12 month warranty)

These need modifications to oil lines and a different manifold too though yeah? ends up being more like $1500 by the time you're finished.

there is KKR430 turbos going for $600 buy now or $490 for auction on eBay. Have a look simply tupe in KKr430 in reach. you will need a dump pipe to suit ($190) but the turbo mounts onto any T3 flange. Simply rotate the housing to suit. The wastegate actuator rod may need to be bent a littel for clerance.

If I was him I would want to be sure it was not going to happen again!

somehow the same thing happens to 2 turbos and then you try and fix it by putting in a $1000-$1500 turbo and hope it doesn't happen again??? hmmmmm

These need modifications to oil lines and a different manifold too though yeah? ends up being more like $1500 by the time you're finished.
there is KKR430 turbos going for $600 buy now or $490 for auction on eBay. Have a look simply tupe in KKr430 in reach. you will need a dump pipe to suit ($190) but the turbo mounts onto any T3 flange. Simply rotate the housing to suit. The wastegate actuator rod may need to be bent a littel for clerance.

KKR430, you will use your origional oil feed and drain lines, you will need to reloop your water lines, the turbo will bolt up to your stock manifold, you will need to releave a little part of the heat sheild as it will hit the commpressor housing, you'll need to rotate the housings to suit, (this only takes about 10min), then modify the actator arm a little so it works properly. It comes with the v-band and female exaust v-band flange, you'll need to get a dump pipe made ( $50 from mild steel tops ), you'll also need to purchase a 90 degree rubber bend to go from the compressor outlet to your origional cooler pipe work. The only other thing you'll need to do is cut 15-20mm off the end of the rubber intake hose so it goes over the commpresor inlet. Hey presto!

The "KKR" turbo's on ebay are not purchased from the KKR distributor in Aus, I just spoke to him. Proably the same as all the Garret Copies.

J

nice, thanks for that. Does your distributor have any dyno graphs on the kkr 430 on a RB25? I know there is a larger model which is better suited for more power but it's a bit laggy from what i've seen. I've been trying to find a graph of a kkr430 on a RB25 for a while but with no luck.

Cheers,

James

nice, thanks for that. Does your distributor have any dyno graphs on the kkr 430 on a RB25? I know there is a larger model which is better suited for more power but it's a bit laggy from what i've seen. I've been trying to find a graph of a kkr430 on a RB25 for a while but with no luck.

Cheers,

James

I'll see what he has there. I used on on my G.F. r32 gts-t, it was less laggy than a stock 25 turbo in my opinion. Probably only 200 to 400 rpm difference in response to the stock turbo.

Hey all.

got it worked out i have a r33 series 2 turbo coming so all good turbo wise.

and all that it is was the oil that was used in my oil changed a few months ago was way too thick on cold starts (which is when the turbo's failed) it snaped the ceramic wheel off the back because it wasnt getting enough or any oil to the bearing there fore heating it up and cracking the cermic n braking the wheel off the back of it..

So for future reference check the type of oil that gets put in your car.

cheers for your replies

Arsnik

Hey all.

got it worked out i have a r33 series 2 turbo coming so all good turbo wise.

and all that it is was the oil that was used in my oil changed a few months ago was way too thick on cold starts (which is when the turbo's failed) it snaped the ceramic wheel off the back because it wasnt getting enough or any oil to the bearing there fore heating it up and cracking the cermic n braking the wheel off the back of it..

So for future reference check the type of oil that gets put in your car.

cheers for your replies

Arsnik

hey Nick

glad you got the problem sorted and new turbo on its way.

Just out of curiousity what oil were you using???

Cheers GMB

it was that new castrol edge stuff 10W-60W.

i did some looking around thinking i will be using motul turbo which is 10W-40W

Yeah the turbo light is the best bang for buck these days.

You will find that most of the guys run there liners on it as its a little thicker.

Good luck with this turbo, hopefully it lasts a bit longer :D

Cheers GMB

Yeah the turbo light is the best bang for buck these days.

You will find that most of the guys run there liners on it as its a little thicker.

Good luck with this turbo, hopefully it lasts a bit longer :D

Cheers GMB

Shit, I was using that castrol 10w-60 shit and my gt35r just died, bearing failure...

A quick question, was there any other noticable damage to your engine due to using such a thick oil? I've only been running this stuff for about 2-3000km.

Shit, I was using that castrol 10w-60 shit and my gt35r just died, bearing failure...

A quick question, was there any other noticable damage to your engine due to using such a thick oil? I've only been running this stuff for about 2-3000km.

Like Nick pointed out the thicker oil can cause the problem's with cold starts (more so with bigger, aftermarket turbo's) and thats what leads to the damage.

You shouldn't see any other damage from using the thicker stuff for that short period of time unless something else was/has already gone wrong.

Are you 100% sure it was a bearing failure (checked it already???)

DO a compression test and see how the old girl is doing, (if motor is back running) it should be fine but better safe than sorry!!!

Otherwise if you have done a bearing you will be doing a rebuild so you can check everything then :D

Cheers GMB

Like Nick pointed out the thicker oil can cause the problem's with cold starts (more so with bigger, aftermarket turbo's) and thats what leads to the damage.

You shouldn't see any other damage from using the thicker stuff for that short period of time unless something else was/has already gone wrong.

Are you 100% sure it was a bearing failure (checked it already???)

DO a compression test and see how the old girl is doing, (if motor is back running) it should be fine but better safe than sorry!!!

Otherwise if you have done a bearing you will be doing a rebuild so you can check everything then :D

Cheers GMB

It was bearing failure in the turbo itself. You can see the remainder of what appears to be the exhaust side bearing casing moving upa nd down the shaft when you look into the oil return.

Had to drive for about 200km with the turbo shitting itself, started off with intermittent whining then about 30km before I got home it was a constant whine whenever on the throttle.

Did a compression test the night before I did the 500km the following day, came up with 150psi in all 4 cylinders (yes 4, my car is a 93 model Toyota MR2 turbo.) did a compression test shortly after buying the car where I also got 150psi across all 4, so there was no change there. I was noticing excessive noise from turbo when car was cold before the turbo died all together, like if I started it up int he morning for 30seconds-1minute, and shut it down, the turbo would grumble and growl and gritt as it spun down.

Anyway, RIP turbocharger, will be using thinner oil in future. It was on special at the time thats why I grabbed it :D

hey.

All that happened to my car was the bearing the engine is pretty much perfect by the sounds of it even thought i havnt done a compresion test but the only thing i would be doing is to check all your oil lines like toffy said mine where fine but never know.

and im hoping this turbo will b the last for a while

cheers nick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
×
×
  • Create New...