Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutch Problems - How Do You Bleed It?

hijaked

By hijaked,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

got a little problem with my r33, which is that my clutch works perfect and then the next minute it wont.

under normal driving, the clutch is fine! clutch grabs normal. no problems

however, if im stuck on a hill in traffic, it gets to the point where, everytime i use the clutch to go forward, the clutch gets lighter and shorter in terms of how much play i have with the pedal. It pretty much gets to the point where the clutch pedal feels like its not connected to anything, i cant get the car back into gear without, turning the car off, forcing it to 1st, and then dumping the clutch to get the car moving again.

altho once the cars is driving on the flat again, after a little while the clutch returns to normal.

my other problem with the clutch is that, on those wet days, if i break traction and the wheels spin, the longer the wheels spin the longer it takes for my clutch to go back to what i beleive is normal. same thing again, pedal doesnt do anything, car stuck in 2nd....

The car has a aftermarket clutch, no idea what it is. just not stock!

I talked to a friend and he beleives that there are air bubbles in the in the hydrolic... my question is, assuming thats the problem,

How do i bleed the clutch? or is there an easier way to get rid of those bubbles. at the moment my car is sitting on a hoist..

Thanks for your time

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120264-clutch-problems-how-do-you-bleed-it/
Share on other sites
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

bleeding :

whould be a nipple on the side of the slave cyl on the side of the gearbox... you need to undo to that a little and have someone press the clutch allowing the fluid to come out a little . then tighten it quickly before releaseing the clutch.

then repeat..

prob is an easier way, but this is how i do it lol

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
  • Author
Posted

flying high: i dont know how old the clutch is.. 2nd hand car.. but i find it strange that it can work perfect and then not.... but i wil leave that at the end of the list as its the hardest (and costs more :D)

Craved: ive seen the nipples, fair enough, will have to give that a go, and then pump more fluid into the top... what fluid should i use???

thanks for the replys

SuAvE-1 Collaborator

SuAvE-1

Posted
Posted

not sure on how to fix your problem, one thing is for sure though. DO NOT USE SYTHENTIC BRAKE FLUID!!! use regular mineral brake fluid otherwise you will destroy your seals and then you will leak clutch fluid until you cannot select gears properly and have to top up clutch fluid regularly like i do, until you either replace the clutch master cylinder or rebuild it with a seal kit.

  • 2 weeks later...
Savman Enthusiast

Savman

Posted
Posted

Hijacked i have the same problem or very similar with my R32 GTR. I find that sometimes that car doesn't engage with first properly even know there is hardly any load. Lately i have been finding that 5th and 4th on high boost, high load is starting to slip this might be because i left the problem to long and now the clutch is starting to go not sure. The pedel never felt right only engaging right at the top when it did engauge.

I am probably going to have to get a new clutch but i'm going to try and bleed the system anyway. Mine is a push type tripple plate clutch. If u find out whats going on tell me so i can rectify. :

:whistling:

hijaked Collaborator

hijaked

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i have driven my car for a total of 40 mins in the last 7 weeks!!

this week ive had to change my exhuast manifold twice... f**king cheap manifold looks like a banana!

anways i took my car for a test drive... i still had a problems, but just driving normally on flat land.... then i bled the clutch.

it feels better, and i havnt had the problems... then again.. i havnt driven the car in ages so i dont know

when its fixed fully, ill let you know

devos2be Community Regular

devos2be

Posted
Posted

hey guys i have the same problem i have clutch fluid leaking down near my feet around the seal is this a big drama or fairly cheap fix can i leave it for a little while i only have to top it up every day.

post-28526-1151560134.jpg

ranicx Veteran

ranicx

Posted
Posted

i think the problem that you have described here is more to do with the seals on the clutch master cylinder. it may not be leaking, but it sounds like its not holding the pressure when you push the clutch in. im getting the same problem at the moment, and somtimes the clutch pedel doesnt come fully up

have been quoted $260 to get it replaced

SuAvE-1 Collaborator

SuAvE-1

Posted
Posted

just bought a new clutch master cylinder for $140 delivered off Kudos motorsports. Brand new genuine part. Gonna install it soon.

ATM i believe my clutch to be fine, but I have to keep topping up the master cylinder fluid (as it pools around my feet) to maintain decent gear selection and clutch disengagement on high load.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...