Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

In all honesty is theer any gain noticed with a CAI setup for a pod?

it has the same concept as an intercooler...

turbo heats up the charged air, the cooler it comes in at, the cooler it'll leave, less work for the intercooler .. etc etc

do you really see a pod system creating a Vacuum enough to implode the surrounding box?

if the feed os 80mm or more then you shouldn't see any issue..

plus most people running CAI are running boxes that are far from perfectly sealed anyway..

from the first post, i missed that its made of PVC ... i dont think it'll like the heat too much, plsu how do you propose to join the piping to the funnel etc ..

yeah, heat shield + cold air intake! I agree, a little hot air is better than not enought air, espesially when you have a FMIC and it will be cooled anyway!

cops are pretty soft on mods down here... just hard on dickhead drivers!

i dont believe there is such a thing as not enough hot air

the stock airbox and snorkel will suck in the required amount of air.

if you feel its a restriction then fit a higher flowing filter.

sucking in hot air is a bad thing

Hey guys, pretty intresting to see all different CAI systems but to spent $180 - $250 just on the CAI then + $100 for a decent POD is bit over my budget...

Im going to start researching into different materials that could be used to make my CAI design..

I like the PVC funnel idea... quite creative! would love to hear some moe ideas

Cheers

Exactly Paul! As if a custom 3" CAI with a fully sealed POD enclosure isnt going to give you a much better air flow/suction then the standard box! Of coarse it will...

Edited by QRI05E
Does anyone know the legal side of using a POD in NSW??? is it still a defect if its partitioned/boxed???

Cheers

if it is boxed and they cannot see it, legally it still must be able to pass the EPA sound emmissions test. so induction noise is covered within that.

At the moment it is a defect & $70 fine. There is talk about repeat offenders being punished with a demerit point. If it is modified from standard then it has to be engineered, then technically it is street legal. Depends on the cop, ive seen engineered cars get defected all the same. But id rather spend the money and get the filter enclosed and legal rather than copping a couple of fines and then having to outlay the money. It also surprises me that you would consider putting some rough looking pvc ducting in your car, $17000 plus sports cars and always looking for the cheapest option. pvc piping, $400 intercooler kits, $22 bleed valves, absolutely amazes me.

Thats alright then... you can line the inside of the partition/box with thin foam which will reduce the induction noise.. but i love the sound of a skyline comming onto boost :) lol

Sounds like you are some kind of mechanical engineer or something, suggest you dont post rubbish like this, makes you look stupid.

yeah, heat shield + cold air intake! I agree, a little hot air is better than not enought air, espesially when you have a FMIC and it will be cooled anyway!

cops are pretty soft on mods down here... just hard on dickhead drivers!

i personally would rather lose a tiny amount of power due to hot air being sucked in, than lose more power by not sucking enough air. if the cai setup will definately supply enough air then fine but i'd rather be safe then sorry.

Edited by mad082

They run a 4" intake, have you seen the standard intake on a airbox? and its about avoiding $70 fines and defects also. My customers would be pretty pissed if i fitted a pod and then he went out and got defected. What you guys do on your own cars is your business, but dont advise other people incorrectly as it will cost them money.

i personally would rather lose a tiny amount of power due to hot air being sucked in, than lose more power by not sucking enough air. if the cai setup will definately supply enough air then fine but i'd rather be same then sorry.

well everyone should know the rules for their state, so if everyone would like to post up the rulings for the different states so that people who don't know can find out.

i'm in qld and according to the 'hoon' squad up here that pulled me over, all you need for a pod to be legal in qld is a fixed mounting bracket for it.

and something i just thought about is if you have a sealed box with just a pipe coming from the front bar, and that pipe is foward facing and in the open, and if you are driving in heavy rain and following cars then you are going to get an airbox full of water. i'd suggest putting a 5mm hole in the bottom of the airbox to let water drain out. it would have to be a real prick of a cop to book you for it, and if you made it at the back of the box where it can't be seen there is less chance of the cop seeing it.

i personally would rather lose a tiny amount of power due to hot air being sucked in, than lose more power by not sucking enough air. if the cai setup will definately supply enough air then fine but i'd rather be safe then sorry.

As Paul said its better to have the pod completely sealed from underbonnet air intake. The pod will suck enough air if it have a single 3inch feed. The second you open it up to underbonnet air there is no point having the cold air feed, it'll start sucking air in through the path of least resistance - i. the holes into the engine bay.

And you'll lose more power from increased air intake temps than from a slight pressure drop from the intake system. I know (at least from working with air compressors) that a 3 degree increase in intake air temp decreases power by about 1%. So it

Cold air intakes are most important at low speeds and when taking off. The faster you are going, the less a cold air intake is needed as more air is forced into the engine bay anyway. And the second you increase speed, the pressure drop across the inlet pipe will decrease due to the air being forced into the intake piping - the ram air effect.

It also surprises me that you would consider putting some rough looking pvc ducting in your car, $17000 plus sports cars and always looking for the cheapest option. pvc piping, $400 intercooler kits, $22 bleed valves, absolutely amazes me.

To answer your comment, products such as intercoolers, CAI, bleed valves are all non mechanical and non electrical devices.. How can you justify spending the extra $$$ for the a near identical product that does the same job??? Fair enough the name brands might be bit more appealing in appearance but to compare a CAI costing $50 or spending $300 on a name brand and both do the same job is not logical.. and might i add there is nothing wrong with those $400 FMIC kits and $22 boost controllers..

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...