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AlexCim
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munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
Posted

Very measured as expected Alex, the oldest 19yo I have ever "almost" met!

Whenever I consider buying a different type of car I always ask the question "what will it cost if the most expensive part needs replacing?" The motor usually... Being the son of a mechanic and seeing it happen often, I always take this into consideration. In saying that I have never had to replace one in any of my cars (touch wood) maybe that's luck, maybe it's smart buying? I don't know.

Looking very much forward to seeing and hearing about your mission.

Cheers

Luke

BoyWhoCriedWolf Grand Master

BoyWhoCriedWolf

Posted
Posted

I have own both an RS4 and a 260. The 260 is obviously a better car for som many reasons.

I got 250awkw from the 260 with the following:

PFC - $950

Greddy profec: $450

Pods and inlet pipes: $250

HKS dumps and Nismo front pipe: $800

5 puk ceramic button clutch: $670

RSR coilovers: $850

Installed and tuned: $2200.00

We had a "reputable tuner" from Melbourne come up to tune a variety of cars. The kill list so far is 1 x rb25 and my rb26. Pretty shocking really.

I am on the rebuild road now, this is what is going in:

Group A N1 turbos

Tuneagent exhaust manifolds

CP forged pistons

REV I beam forged rods

Tomei 260 drop ins

OS Giken gears

Clear timing cover (bling - couldnt help myself)

Block has had the acid treatment

Head is getting some minor porting

Sard 720cc injectors

Greddy rail

Bosch 044 pump

Z32 afms

Custom inlet piping (had to do this again due to z32 afms)

Sump baffle kit

Trust PE2 exhaust

Catch can

Full Tomei engine gasket kit with 1.2mm metal head gasket.

I am hoping for around 330awkw. It will cost a bit over $13k installed, this is over and above the initial mods.

Dont break a GTR motor - they are expensive. This is the first one I have blown, I dont plan on doing it again.

Will keep you posted.

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted
I have own both an RS4 and a 260. The 260 is obviously a better car for som many reasons.

I got 250awkw from the 260 with the following:

PFC - $950

Greddy profec: $450

Pods and inlet pipes: $250

HKS dumps and Nismo front pipe: $800

5 puk ceramic button clutch: $670

RSR coilovers: $850

Installed and tuned: $2200.00

We had a "reputable tuner" from Melbourne come up to tune a variety of cars. The kill list so far is 1 x rb25 and my rb26. Pretty shocking really.

I am on the rebuild road now, this is what is going in:

Group A N1 turbos

Tuneagent exhaust manifolds

CP forged pistons

REV I beam forged rods

Tomei 260 drop ins

OS Giken gears

Clear timing cover (bling - couldnt help myself)

Block has had the acid treatment

Head is getting some minor porting

Sard 720cc injectors

Greddy rail

Bosch 044 pump

Z32 afms

Custom inlet piping (had to do this again due to z32 afms)

Sump baffle kit

Trust PE2 exhaust

Catch can

Full Tomei engine gasket kit with 1.2mm metal head gasket.

I am hoping for around 330awkw. It will cost a bit over $13k installed, this is over and above the initial mods.

Dont break a GTR motor - they are expensive. This is the first one I have blown, I dont plan on doing it again.

Will keep you posted.

hey mate u have sumed it up i reckon. doesnt matter what motor and how tough it is, when shit tuners get hold of it they are time bombs. rb25 or 26 or a damn rb20e they are still gonna blow when leaning em out.

i cant see a rb26 rebuild any different to a rb25 build, except alot of stock gtr stuff can stay for 500hp and not so with a 25 engine.

RBNT (sorry mate i forgot your name) dont forget the few important things with a 26 rebuild. oil restrictor in the head and block off the other oil feed to the head, plus i'd be upgrading the oil pump to a n1 if budget is tight, or a jun/nismo one for extra insurance. plus a baffle kit in the sump is not really going to cut any sort of spirited driving and the chance of oil surge. enlarged and baffled sump is a minimum if any hard driving is going to be considered and u dont want to have to worry about starving the bearings when cornering hard or doin a 8k rpm clutch dump launch :laugh:

those parts are most critical and i wouldnt build an engine without them personally, as the expensive costs of aftermarket pistons/rods and that can turn to a mess without proper oil lubrication.

as said though, if u want good power then you gotta fork out for it.

different horses for different courses :)

BoyWhoCriedWolf Grand Master

BoyWhoCriedWolf

Posted
Posted (edited)

Brad, thanks for the avdvice, I have N1 oil and water pumps on the way (forgot to mention). I will have a look into the sump - thanks again.

Alex, you will have a ball with the 260 running 250kw. Watch out for the std suspension though, I found mine to be a bit soft. They are great on oversteer, like a GTR but a bit softer. Remember you injectors will be at the limit and the turbos are on the same path. I highly recommend you buy one though - even after the drama's I had with mine. You will love it.

Cheers,

Ken

Edited by RBNT
AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thats why id stop at 250....keep it sane/cost effective.

On another note, chances are I am going to overlap my stagea ownerships and swap over all my suspension into the 260RS (apart from rear shocks which ill need new ones, but i know SK does trade-ins :laugh:)

Going to do the same for the stereo, cat and possibly catback.... so yeah. There wont be a rush to get the 260 on the road then either.

Going to just wait until i get my tax return back this financial year, more credit to my name to let me borrow.

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted
Brad, thanks for the avdvice, I have N1 oil and water pumps on the way (forgot to mention). I will have a look into the sump - thanks again.

Alex, you will have a ball with the 260 running 250kw. Watch out for the std suspension though, I found mine to be a bit soft. They are great on oversteer, like a GTR but a bit softer. Remember you injectors will be at the limit and the turbos are on the same path. I highly recommend you buy one though - even after the drama's I had with mine. You will love it.

Cheers,

Ken

hey ken, no worries mate checkout the forced induction section for the thread on the oil restrictors for the head as its vital to keep the oil in the sump and not fill the head when thrashing it. big oil pumps can drain the sump quicker than it can drain back out of the head if the restrictors aint installed, from the info i've read from sydneykid etc.

good luck with it also, hope u have better luck than i have been having lately :laugh:

cheers

Brad

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