Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey team. After much swearing and cursing I have come to discover the reason my car wont start is due to a snapped exhaust cam! How it has happened I have no idea!!!

Any how my problem has now come in that I have no idea in what to put in its place? Any suggestions please, I am prepared to change both cams but am not sure of which will best suit the car?

Mods are

S2 RB25 DET (210kw@wheels) :D

Modified inlet plenum

Forged pistons (2.6litre now rather than 2.5)

FMIC

Stock R33 S2 Turbo

600hp Bosch fuel pump

Wolf3d V4 plus ECU

Turbosmart E-boost EBC

What to do????????????????????

Need help on prices, brands, which ones are best suited etc, etc

Edited by 12DFY
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120984-bit-of-help/
Share on other sites

i have a stock exhaust cam sitting here that will replace it if you like

you shouldnt have to replace both

Thanks for the reply mate, replacing it again with another stock one is probably my preferred option as i will not need to get retune etc etc etc. What are you willing to part with your stock cam for?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120984-bit-of-help/#findComment-2229258
Share on other sites

snapped the cam and didn't damage the valves? :ermm:

No mate, the cam broke on re-assembly. I needed to drill out two broken cam journal studs which required removal of cams etc. When tightening down the cam it apparently decided to snap. I discovered this after it was assembled and would not start. I rebuilt the engine a year ago myself and have had cams out heaps of times. Its not like i didnt know what i am doing or anything its just one of those things hey. Timing was done correctly and everything. Still i was quite annoyed with myself when i discovered what had happened!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120984-bit-of-help/#findComment-2229307
Share on other sites

hmm are u refering to the cam gear or the cam shaft itself just to clarify

hmm shit all if your going to pick it up

Cam shaft itself mate, Your address is in Auckland so will be unable to pick it up as I live at the Gold Coast Australia. Am more than happy to pay postage and all that good stuff. Funny enough I have an R33 paper weight without it! Dont really want to go aftermarket cams as I would be looking at $800+ and on top of that a retune. So will fix you up accordingly!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120984-bit-of-help/#findComment-2229320
Share on other sites

lol nar dont let the avatar fool u i live in brisbane mate

Sweet will gladly pick it up mate, I work in Brisbane on Thursday and Friday. I could happily pinch the one out of my wifes 33 but unfortunately I do not appreciate hospital food. Have the other car so Im sure I will be able to pick it up!!!! Your a life saver mate!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/120984-bit-of-help/#findComment-2229336
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...