Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

What are your suggestions on using an RBE25det head on my current motor? To be able run higher boost? Is this a watse of money? RB25det Head cost around 700buks 2nd hand.

Regards Shorty =P

Edited by shorty_01
  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

my swap is finished now :). It take me from 15:00 Friday to 16:00 Sunday without a rest, just a few hours of sleep right in the garage :D.

rb25det neo inside.

Parts needed:

- rb25det neo with the same final ratio in the front diff as it is in the rear

- airbox for air filter from a turbo car (or you can use a pod filter)

- intercooler with pipng

- frontpipe from a turbo car (the rest of the exhaust system will work but it is wise to change it for turbo parts, i will do it in the nearist future)

- harness for boost solenoid and boost solenoid itself (enr33 has this harness in s1 versions, but there is no one in s2)

- adsorber canister from a turbo car (or a one-way valve in it`s pipng)

- a pipe for a vacuum brake booster (NEO has an outlet pipe on the manifold in the other direction) but u can modify the stock enr33 pipe, but remember that it has a one-way valve in it.

- ecr33 ecu suitable for your crankshaft position sensor (i have hitachi black sensor same as neo has on my rb25de). Note that afaik mitsubishi and hitachi sensors have different fittings, so they can be used only with the same camshafts.

i think this is all, may be i forgot smth.

what was done:

- right part of front suspension disassembled as i don`t know other way of taking out right driveshaft.

- gearbox removed -- maybe someone can take a 4wd engine out with it still in the car but we couldn`t.

- all auxiliary devices where transfered from the old engine.

- oil pressure sensor, O2 sensor, TPS (needs mechanical modifing because it interfere with the TCS housing on the NEO, but don`t use NEO TPS sensor as it has different resistance -- it cost me an hour of thinking what is wrong with the car :P), all other sensors are the same.

- there was harness work for vtc, aac, boost control solenoid and i think this is all. there is no need to connect "air regulator" used for cold start -- it is fully mechanical on the neo. the only thing that i miss is the FICD solenoid -- so i have a small drop in rpm when a/c engages.

i think this is all you need to know :D. this is not very hard -- the hardest part was to install the gearbox.

i`m in russia now -- never visited AU, but maybe some day i can do this :thumbsup:

idle is the same as it was on rb25de -- about 700 rpm when hot. it still reacts with higher rpm for power steering load, but there is a slight drop in rpm when a/c engages -- but just for a second -- after that aac increases rpm fo normal level.

neo engines have mechanical valve for adding rpm under ps load, but there is no place to fit this valve in r33. well, u can fit the power steering high pressure pipe with this valve into r33 and it will work. unfirtunately this pipe was damaged in the accident in the stagea i took engine from.

there was no time to make any pictures, sorry. there is a small video of the first start made by a cell phone, awfull quality.

Car runs better than before (i feel good torque from 2500 rpm) but sure it can do it better :(.

The nearist todo: to swap exhaust to a stock turbo version or some jdm cat back exhaust (i`m not sure my wife will like it :)) -- N/A exhaust is evil on a turbo car. After that i`m planing to do some dyno measurements.

Cheap mechanical boost gauge shows 0.25 kpa before 4500 rpm and 0.5 after boost solenoid engages, but i`m not sure it is accurate enough -- i`m looking where to purchase defi or apexi gauges.

Edited by Stronzo

oh, i forgot: the fuel evaporation system (black canister near to the air filter box) still isn`t functioning. It is ECU controlled in NEO -- so now control valve is closed all the time, but i`m sure i can make it work -- the problem is i don`t feel anything negative (gazoline smell in hot wheather) :( -- so there is no motivation to fix it :).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...