Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellow drifters, im thinking about getting into the drift scene, not super serious, but as a bit of fun and something to do, if i get anywhere, cool, if i dont, cool.

im buying a rb20det 32.

its auto.

if i wanted to make it drift ready, as i understand, i would need:

manual conversion

bigger turbo

fmic

better ecu

nice tune

helmet

tires

is there something i am missing?

im not aiming for a 32 with big power, i just want to be able to use it for drift and road use.

please tell me if im very wrong, and roughly what parts you think id need, coz im trying to assess if its financially viable :D

thanks alot guys, steve :)

Edited by KLowN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121277-warning-noob-drift-questions-inside/
Share on other sites

Might I ask why you are buying an auto if you are going to turn it into a drift car?

I know there is a thread about auto -> manual, but wouldn't it be easier to start with one instead?

Anyway, good luck with it all... I'm trying to get into drift too... one day I'll even attend an event (vicdrift). Its gonna be interesting... no mods at all (not even an lsd)...

From my limited knowledge, I'd suggest that suspension (not counting the auto -> manual) might need a bit of priority... and I don't just mean spring rates.

And if you need a helmet, the regs will probably stipulate full body cotton(or other natural fibre) as well.

Good luck.

EDIT: this thread is new, and will be useful... the search button will be userful as well... and me doing research BEFORE posting would be cool too.

Seriously though, search.

Edited by ebola

hey thanx ebola, the reason im buying the auto is basically because it has excellent kms on the engine and its a reasonable price. and i can get the conversion done cheap, so im basically gettin a manual gtst for under 10k with a few mods. which, in my opinion, in perth is very good.

as for the suspension, yes coilovers seem to be a must (thanx andy) and the lsd too.

so far its not looking too promising for funds i have :D

but ill keep saving! and you never know!

cheers guys, steve :D

I would say in order you would want.

1. 1.5 or preferable 2 way LSD (Check if road legal in your state)

2. Manual Transmittion (It is possible to drift an auto, but much harder)

3. Nice stiff coil over suspension, 7kg/mm minimum springs and preferable adjustable shocks.

4. Engine maintanence, oil, fluids, filters and check brakes (including handbrake shoes) BEFORE every trip to the track.

Cheers,

Dan. :)

Do as many go fast bits diy as you possibly can.like take out air con,leave air con electric fan there and run a switch to turn it on and off.

1st:

$22 bleed valve

2 way LSD.2nd hand

Exhaust

cold air intake absolutely no hot air to enter the pod.(run ducts)

steering wheel 2nd hand

strip interior

coil overs,strutbraces,brake master cylinder brace.

Run cooling ducts to anything that you think should be cooled.

2nd:

oil cooler

decent sized intercooler kit.(just jap or equivilent)

fuel pump or fpr

fixed race bucket seat 2nd hand

swaybars.

Then turbo,radiator ra ra ra!!!!

Change fluids of the thrashed car regularly.mmmm DRIFT!!

  • 2 months later...
just curious to know why the mention of 1.5 way / 2 way LSD's

Skyline r32's have already got a high viscousity LSD (or something) in em.. So wats the difference between the standard LSD and the 1.5/2 way ones mentioned above?

The viscous has a viscous fluid in it which locks/unlocks drive to each wheel.

1.5 and 2way have mechanical parts to do it... So at certain tensions it will lock/unlock quite noticably and effectively, compared to a lazier viscous lsd.

howstuffworks has the flash animations I think :)

hmm, i think your explanation was informing enough.. Cant understand anything on that site, howstuffworks.. So the 1.5 way and 2 way ones will limit singular wheel slippage to a more extreme degree than the viscous dif will right.. Is it possible to put courser fluid into a viscous dif setup (i dont wana do anything like this, my lsd works fine for what i need it for, 2 lines) just curious

hmm, i think your explanation was informing enough.. Cant understand anything on that site, howstuffworks.. So the 1.5 way and 2 way ones will limit singular wheel slippage to a more extreme degree than the viscous dif will right.. Is it possible to put courser fluid into a viscous dif setup (i dont wana do anything like this, my lsd works fine for what i need it for, 2 lines) just curious

A stock viscous diff is nice and soft for street use. Used for drifting or track work they self destruct. A 2 or 1.5 way is much more durable and can be made to be much more aggressive to drive like a locked diff, but still have a diff action. They give you better drive out of corners and a better controled slide.

Looking at your "to do list" and your currrent plans i would be looking at something that has already had money spent on it like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...A%3AIT&rd=1

if your only beginning then you dont want to spend too much money on a car for drift as its unlikey you will ever get your money back!!!

Good luck with it though cobber and look forward to seeing you out on the track :blink:

GMB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does anyone sell a pipe that's made to go from the Greddy FMIC kit for ECR33 (RB25DET) to the Greddy intake manifold? 
    • Not that I know from experience, but in theory you'd want your gate spring to be as close to target pressure as possible, so you'd go with the higher gate spring?
    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
×
×
  • Create New...