Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i installed a new head unit today and got it and all accessories to work fine when the car is on.

My problem is, when i turn the key to the off position both the head unit and clock reset. Obviously this is because they're not getting a 12v feed with the key in the off position. I know I fiddled with the wiring heaps and might have knocked out a fuse but it isn't one that i could find.

Note that the only way i got all the accessories (clock, beeper) to work was to connect both the 12V battery line and the accessory power line from the car to the head unit's power line. It just doesn't work if it's connected up properly; the clock and head unit don't even turn on, and the open door beeper beeps reeeeally soft.

Anyone know of any fuses i might have blown? or have a solution for this?

Cheers :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121328-accessories-resetting/
Share on other sites

Easy one, you have blown the constant 12v audio wire.

There are two possible locations for the fuse that will need to replace.

1 - under dash

2 - in the boot

Both are listed as "audio" fuses.

If you replace the fuse and it continues to blow, you still have a short in the 12v constant line behind the head unit.

Easy one, you have blown the constant 12v audio wire.

There are two possible locations for the fuse that will need to replace.

1 - under dash

2 - in the boot

Both are listed as "audio" fuses.

If you replace the fuse and it continues to blow, you still have a short in the 12v constant line behind the head unit.

believe me i've checked both those fuses 10 times and they're both fine :\ the fuses aren't blowing; the cd player turns on and works perfectly every time, it's just that when i take the key out both it and the clock reset - no 12v.

yeah its not blown....

when we put the dvd player in my car, only way we could run the headunit and dvd player was to hook the accessories power wire to a switch, so we could flick between either headunit or dvd player, and it used to reset the clock and headunit, which in turn gave me the shits after awhile. so now i just have the headunit hooked up and it doesnt do it anymore.

its something to do with the accessories power wire... it isnt blown, its just the way you've got it connected i'd say.

yeah its not blown....

when we put the dvd player in my car, only way we could run the headunit and dvd player was to hook the accessories power wire to a switch, so we could flick between either headunit or dvd player, and it used to reset the clock and headunit, which in turn gave me the shits after awhile. so now i just have the headunit hooked up and it doesnt do it anymore.

its something to do with the accessories power wire... it isnt blown, its just the way you've got it connected i'd say.

yeah i tried many ways of connecting the accessory and battery 12v lines on the head unit and car ends and nothing would work except connecting them all together (as in all 4 wires together).. obviously this can't be the way to do it but it's the only way that works at the moment and i'm trying to figure out why. i didn't solder any of the connections just so i can take them apart later and fix it.

btw my car is a series 1.

cheers guys

edit: bit of thinking.. without the head unit connected, the only way the accessories would work was to connect the 12v battery and accessory lines together. however the clock would still reset every time i turned it off. why wouldn't the 12v line still be giving 12v when the key is out? on friday i'm going to whip out the multimeter and see what's going on with the 12v battery line. hopefully it'll come because at the moment the head unit turns on quickly and defaults to 87.5mhz FM and loud volume which is annoying.. and it's always 1am..

Edited by govich

yeah mines S1 as well. hmmm

was it an aftermarket headunit in ur car before hand or are u replacing the standard one?

coz if it was aftermarket, seems to me whoever put it in before hand farked up somehow.

btw when your clock resets.... does it reset to 1:00

coz mine did. and i always thought that was kinda really weird given most clocks reset at 12:00 lol

yeah mines S1 as well. hmmm

was it an aftermarket headunit in ur car before hand or are u replacing the standard one?

coz if it was aftermarket, seems to me whoever put it in before hand farked up somehow.

btw when your clock resets.... does it reset to 1:00

coz mine did. and i always thought that was kinda really weird given most clocks reset at 12:00 lol

nah the thing is the previous unit was aftermarket (kenwood) but worked fine, the clock didn't reset. the unit was just old and stuffed and didn't display anything. so my conclusion is i farked something up and i'm trying to find out what cos i can't figure it out! yeah and it resets to 1:00 which is weird yeah..

hmm. maybe you did blow a fuse somewhere then.

but then again by all rights if you blew a fuse, it wouldnt go on at all. :laugh:

so im stumped for now.

exactly..

i spent 3 hours looking over fuses and looking for hidden wires etc

i connected exactly the same wires that the last head unit used (no more no less) and it doesn't work properly while the last one did :\

stumped for now...will see what i can do this weekend

Kinda would make sense though.

the only way the accessories would work was to connect the 12v battery and accessory lines together

Sounds like the 12v power is gone then. You put the accessory wire with the 12v wire, it will feed power to the 12v line... and the accessory power will be much weaker than the 10amp or whatever the headunit will want, so your door beeper goes dull.

When you turn the accessories off, it's not giving power to the 12v wire anymore, so you lose settings etc.

I'd guess that there is an inline fuse for the 12v constant power wire, which must have blown. That, or it's shorting out somewhere. My money is on a short, cause you say that when it's hooked up correctly, the door beeper is soft.

Get a multimeter onto those wires man. Test for 12v on both of those power wires, and even check that the grounding is 100%.

I used the stock wiring harness, and used all those wires, and it was fine. The only change was that the black ground from the head unit... which I put to one of those screw-bolts that hold the gearshift surround on.

see now that would make sense. i never thought of the battery 12v wire being shorted somewhere. this allows for a whole number of other fuses that could be blown - main lines from the battery as opposed to just audio fuses.

the battery 12v line is always 12v and the accessory line is 12v when the key is turned. of course.

i'll post pictures when i have a look.

thanks!

Edited by govich

Yeah good luck! I'm not so sure that the *main* battery wire is shorted, otherwise you'd have, like you said, a whole heap of stuff not working.

I suspect the 12v wire somewhere behind the dash, that feeds 12v to the clock, radio, and AC will be shorted or have an inline fuse blown. Your AC resets to 18 degrees or whatever, right?

But in any case, i'm willing to bet that your 12v constant feed to the HU is not giving out any power at all. I'd take the accessories wire off it ASAP, as the accessories may short with it and you could start a car-fire if you're not careful.

Edited by RANDY

yep, as predicted there was a blown fuse on the battery line. it's on the main panel under the steering wheel but it's one of the obscure ones in chinese characters (i can read japanese characters), i'll take a photo of it tomorrow in daylight.

the only problem i have now is the head unit resets after a while, but the clock doesn't so i know it's not the car. looks like i have more work to do :

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...