Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well you're only allowed +2" from factory yeah? When I got pulled over once, a cop checked exactly for that. I was laughing because I only had 17s at the time but they still pulled me over to check it out anyway. Well not laughing so much cos I got defected anyway lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121628-mags/#findComment-2244252
Share on other sites

Well you're only allowed +2" from factory yeah? When I got pulled over once, a cop checked exactly for that. I was laughing because I only had 17s at the time but they still pulled me over to check it out anyway. Well not laughing so much cos I got defected anyway lol.

yeah allowed 2" over factory so think ill go for the 18s. Most wouldnt realise they were too big unless they really wanted to defect you and ride height only makes their job easier if your too low.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121628-mags/#findComment-2244288
Share on other sites

I've had 19's on my 33 for 4yrs, never had any issues yet. But they are illegal so i will wear it on the chin if i get cannaried. I am also 29yrs old with a 100% clean driving history, the car is only used on weekends, so it is less likely to be noticed.

Your rim choices are pretty good, the syle of rims that i would put on my car :P. Make sure you do NOT need spacers when they test fit the rims as these are deffinately illegal, also make sure that the centre hole, of the rim, is the right size for the hub. If the hole is too big the studs will be supporting all the pressure, force, etc, of the car. This happened to me, after three years of driving on the rims, i had them powdercoated, when my mate put the wheel on my car he noticed the centre hole was to big and not resting on the hub. This was only noticed as the centre caps had not yet been fitted. The solution was simple, just went to Bob Jane T-marts, measured up the hub and hole, then ordered a set of "Hub Rings". I consider these Hub Rings to be a very safe solution, so if your new wheels needs hub-rings to make it fit properly, that should be ok.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121628-mags/#findComment-2245139
Share on other sites

They are wicked rims.

Wouldnt mind a set with the centre painted blac for my 32 sedan.

Oh the dreams begin.

is hyper black with a machined lip so the dreams will continue i guess, online says comes in chrome.......hmmm wonder how much

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121628-mags/#findComment-2246059
Share on other sites

Well you're only allowed +2" from factory yeah?

A common missconception, reading the road regs for SA, you are allowed ~2" for your wheel assembly. This means Rim & Tyre. My standard size is 155R14 60, which running a 215R17 40 comes in ~2-4mm under the limit, however going by 2" rim increase it technically fails, yet is legal under ADR's.

Yet that being said, the police will quite happily use 2" rule.

Edited by L3nny
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121628-mags/#findComment-2261960
Share on other sites

WHEELS AND TYRES

All wheels and tyres fitted must comply with the Road Traffic (Miscellaneous) Regulations 1999.

The main points to note are:-

(a) The wheel track must not be increased by more than 26mm beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Maximum allowable tracks for individual vehicle models can be obtained fromTransport SA. The wheel track is the distance measured across the vehicle from the centre-line of one tyre to the centre-line of the other tyre on the same axle.

(b) The wheels and tyres must not foul the body, suspension or any part of the vehicle under any operating conditions and must not project beyond the bodywork, when the wheels are in the straight ahead position and viewed from above.

© It is recommended that the tyres fitted to an axle of a vehicle must be of the same carcass construction. The tyre size designation of tyres fitted to an axle is required to be the same.

(d) The tyres fitted must be suitable for the rim. The tyre retailer should have information about matching tyres and rims.

(e) The load rating of the tyres must be adequate for the vehicle. ADR 24 vehicles (manufactured on or after 1/1/73) have this information listed on the tyre placard. The load rating of any tyre fitted must not be less than lowest load rating listed on the placard. For vehicles manufactured before 1/1/73 the tyres must have a load carrying capacity equal to or greater than those supplied as standard equipment by the

vehicle manufacturer.

(f) Spacers are not permitted between the hub and wheel (unless originally fitted by the manufacturer)

(g) If the wheels of a vehicle are retained by multiple nuts or set screws, not by splines and a single nut, then the wheel nuts must match the tapered holes in the wheel and the nuts must be engaged for their full depth of thread.

(h) Wheels that have been widened by inserting a spacer band are not permitted.

(i) Vehicles manufactured on or after 1 January 1973 (ADR 24) are not permitted to increase or decrease the diameter of the wheel by more than 50 mm than the largest or smallest wheel listed on the tyre placard.

(j) The overall diameter of a wheel and tyre fitted to a vehicle manufactured on or after 1 January 1973 (ADR 24) must not be more than 15 mm greater than the largest tyre size listed on the tyre placard and not more than 15 mm less than the smallest tyre size listed on the placard. Specifications for overall tyre diameters are listed in the Tyre and Rim Standards Manual, issued by the Tyre and Rim Association of Australia.

(k) Vehicles manufactured prior to 1 January 1973 are not required to comply with (i) and (j) above however consideration must be given to clearance of the tyres and wheels on suspension and body components.

(l) Passenger cars manufactured on or after 1/7/88 must also comply with ADR 18/.. that stipulates that the speedometer must indicate the actual vehicle speed, for all speeds above 40 kilometres per hour to an accuracy of plus or minus 10 percent.

When selecting aftermarket wheel rims for a motor vehicle, ensure that the offset of the rim does not vary by more than 13mm from the original rim fitted by the vehicle manufacturer. This will ensure that the wheel track is not increased by more than 26mm beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

Transport SA has a list of maximum allowable wheel tracks for a large variety of vehicles and can be consulted to confirm if a wheel track is within acceptable limits.

Wheel rims fitted to passenger cars manufactured after 1st July 1985, which are not original equipment or an original equipment replacement by the vehicle manufacturer must be indelibly marked with the wheels nominal diameter, width and offset and with identification of the manufacturer of the wheel and the standard to which the wheel was manufactured. This should be checked before the wheels are purchased.

Tyres fitted to a vehicle must have a tread pattern at least 1.5 millimetres deep on all parts of the tyre that normally come into contact with the road surface. Tyres are manufactured with tread wear indicators that are located in the tyre grooves in at least four points around the circumference of the tyre. If the tread wear indicators are at the same level as the overall tread, or there is less than 1.5 millimetres of tread depth on the tyre, then the tyre is considered to be illegal.

Tyres fitted to passenger cars may not be treated by recutting or re-grooving of the tread unless the tyre is constructed to do so and marked as such.

Relevant info highlighted in bold.

50mm for wheel changes

15 mm for wheel and tyre changes

and BOTH have to match.

Edited by chops
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121628-mags/#findComment-2262466
Share on other sites

Personally id go with 18's. i have 8 1/2 on the front an 9 1/2 on rear and they look tough! if you go to 19's you will void your insurance even though your insurance company will insure them on the car, if you are involved in a crash you risk not being paid out.

post-29370-1150442188.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121628-mags/#findComment-2262904
Share on other sites

Personally id go with 18's. i have 8 1/2 on the front an 9 1/2 on rear and they look tough! if you go to 19's you will void your insurance even though your insurance company will insure them on the car, if you are involved in a crash you risk not being paid out.
Depending on how dodgey your insurance company is... They have to prove that the increased rim size was partly responsible for the accident.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121628-mags/#findComment-2263378
Share on other sites

Adam (-SKYLINE-) very nice car, i personally whould paint/powder-coat the spokes black to match the bonnet, etc. :D

I highly recommend JDM Imports :( They are a SAU business trader.

I have just bought a set of track rims through them and i couldn't be any happier with the whole experience.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121628-mags/#findComment-2263392
Share on other sites

Im gonna get the 18x9.5 as mags on car are already 9.5 so wouldnt want to go any thinner. Also 18s will keep within the rules.

Turns out they dont come in 9.5, anyone running all 8.5s? Does it change the look that much? Is there a specified maximum width?

Edited by black33_26
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/121628-mags/#findComment-2266864
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...