Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

in Adelaide there's probably only 3 people i would consider seeing to get my car tuned!

John Keen - Hi tech Dyno

Shaun Dunns - Boostworx

Brett - Graham West (Adelaide Performance Engineering)

99% of the people in the S.a section will agree with me on those 3 people!

As for the Rb30 bottom end i've got an rb30 in my 32 and it is definitely well worth it! You only need to read some of the 190 odd page thread in the forced induction section to see that but its not straight forward and would require your car being off the road for a period of time. The other major factor is the cost, if done properly its not that cheap seeing 250rwkw's!

Ok, I called Ashley at Graham West in Adelaide.

This is what I have been suggested.

Let me know what you think.

PowerFC Comp (DJetrow)

PowerFC Boost Controller

ASE Intercooler

3" Exhaust, WIth Front Down, and Dump Pipe and Hi FLo Cat.

Rebuild my stock Turbo into a GT30 Internals Limited to 250rwkw

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

Z32 Air Flow Meter

Nismo 550 Injectors

Does this sound like what I should be looking out for?

Ok, I called Ashley at Graham West in Adelaide.

This is what I have been suggested.

Let me know what you think.

PowerFC Comp (DJetrow) - STANDARD POWER FC IS SUFFICIENT

PowerFC Boost Controller - NOT NECESSARY BUT A GOOD CHOICE

ASE Intercooler - CHEAP JUST JAP COOLER WILL BE FINE

3" Exhaust, WIth Front Down, and Dump Pipe and Hi FLo Cat. - DEFINITE

Rebuild my stock Turbo into a GT30 Internals Limited to 250rwkw - MANY PEOPLE WILL HAVE DIFF OPINIONS ON THIS!

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump - DEFINITE

Z32 Air Flow Meter - DEFINITE

Nismo 550 Injectors- NOT SURE BUT SOUNDS ABOUT RIGHT

Does this sound like what I should be looking out for?

Dunno if ashley is the best guy to speak to at graham west, brett is your man!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...view=getnewpost

These are the best front/dumps so I've been told and the catco metal cats flow better

and Gr33dy on this forum has good prices on Hybrid GT spec coolers,Apexi PFC ecu's,bosch fuel pumps etc...

www.nengun.com for injectors and z32 afm, CGC in nsw for high flow(rebuilding stock turbo)

Im going with the turbosmart E boost 2 compact boost controller

but Im considering the nengun HKS GTrs/PowerFC/Nismo Injector package looks like the price works out about the same as getting a high flow and pFC etc...

Edited by BOVed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...