Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i am interested in buying this manifold

one of the reasons why my engine blew was because the stock manifold was leaning out #6 so my next build up, i don't want to have the same problem

will this be solve the problem?

have anyone dealt wiht this guy

how are these ebay manifolds ?

thanks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

MANIFOLD_RB26_MAIN.jpg

MANIFOLD_RB26_inside.jpg

MANIFOLD_RB26_inside3.jpg

MANIFOLD_RB26_HOLE.jpg

MANIFOLD_RB26_hole2.jpg

There is more to the #6 leaner issue than airflow, it is also the hottest running cylinder. It is the furthest from the water pump, it is the furthest from the oil pump, it gets the hottest air flow etc etc.

What we do is tune the primary pipe temperature so they are the same. Put the highest flowing injector in #6 and then trim the fuel in all the cylinders to give the same exhaust gas temperature.

I have yet to find a "perfect" inlet system at all practical boost levels, aerodynamics is like that.

:dry: cheers :wave:

Nah... flow testing the injectors before u stick em in.

They are never perfect. One will flow more than another.

So, you put the highest flowing one in the rear :dry:

Then there is tuning stuff, which someone else can input as im not sure on it.

Or you could go dual entry fuel rails. They have been debated in the past (search button for that)

We are already tested on of our customers drag racing cars, these car are 1000++ whp. These cars run fine on very high boost(2.5 psi) no air leak, no crack on our manifold. If you are looking for very best quality manifold for your engine this is the one.

dont you just love dodgy ebay.. if your goin to buy a intake.. spend the money on a decent brand named one.. not a dodgy ebay one :

Edited by rb26s13

haha, yea i thought that was kinda funny..."if u want the best, this is the one" then you wonder why they sell for 1/4 the price ... hahhaha

so what happens if i get new injectors, shouldn't they all be the same ?

do you suggest i flow test the new injectors ?

thanks for all the help guys

Nah... flow testing the injectors before u stick em in.

They are never perfect. One will flow more than another.

So, you put the highest flowing one in the rear :(

Or you could go dual entry fuel rails. They have been debated in the past (search button for that)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...