Jump to content
SAU Community

Button Clutches

Jimbo2000
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jimbo2000 Grand Master

Jimbo2000

Posted
Posted

Hi

This will probably sound nobbish but what is the difference between button clutches and normal, as i have been driving for years but only just now learning how to drive manual due to finally saving enough to get my 33.

the 33 gtst in question has a lot of aftermarket parts on it including a gtr button clutch :D

I know obviosly being a higher performance clutch it will be harder to drive, what are the advantages to this?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12274-button-clutches/
Share on other sites
PSI_GTSII Experienced

PSI_GTSII

Posted
Posted

I've had a few now with no bad reports.

Can put extra strain on Gearbox's and diffs, due to uncomprimising bite when disengaged....but is reasuring to know when hittin 4th under full load / Boost you are not gettin any slip :P

The 5 puck varietys are a little easier to live with than ones with lesser pucks.

Normally around the $500 mark for a 5 puck brass button for SR's / RB's

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12274-button-clutches/#findComment-222148
Share on other sites
\\\Wiktor Enthusiast

\\\Wiktor

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

The more pucks the easier it is to drive, plus don't get too heavy a pressure plate, can make it a nightmare in slow traffic.

See'ya:burnout:

that with the pressure plate is not quite true. one of my friends has a pressure plate that handles over 1200nm in his R33. its not very hard to press down. and its still standard wisko clutch cylinders.

but the 6 button clutch plate is quite harddriven if you slipping much on so it get´s hot.

Wiktor

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12274-button-clutches/#findComment-223171
Share on other sites
Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted

Instead of having a complete disc for a friction plate, they have a number of "paddles" this increases the clamping pressure relative to the decrease in surface area.....

depending on material the amount of "bite"

Some like 'em, some don't...

If you look on justjap site they have pic. If you are just learning a manual.... you wont know any difference.

Ciao

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12274-button-clutches/#findComment-225879
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • Duncan
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By Duncan · Posted

      It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • AdiR34
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • Duncan
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By Duncan · Posted

      So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...