Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

Have looked around and have found RMS Motor Parts to be the best priced for purchase and install so far.

Can anybody recommend or even comment on these guys.

I got quoted $1290 for the diff and about $250 - $350 to install.

Edited by the97skyline
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123149-kaaz-15-lsd-feedback/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im in qld so i got mine from mercury who got it from rms

diff all good bit noisy and chattery i just change my oli to penrite withthe lsd additive now its like driveing a normal diff ed car

so look at the oils after bedding in

Yeah i went ahead and ordered the diff, spock to henry cool guy. Even came all the way to the city so i could give him the money.

Will see in 2 weeks or so. Can't wait, hanging to put this in.

Sweet guys thanks for the feedback

Where are you getting it fitted?

I think I saw you drive past the other week.

I work on the same street are RMS Motor Parts.

Henry is a top bloke.

there's a place about 50 meters from RMS which is where I got mine fitted.

they did a good job.

  • 2 weeks later...
How's the diff???

Can anyone comment on how good the Kaaz 1.5 way is???

CHeers

Hey JaseR33

I'm getting mine installed on monday so can let you know then.

What oil is everybody using after the running in process on the Kaaz oil????

im running kaaz oil in my 2way. its farkn harsh for the street, and i imagine 1.5 would only be a little better.......... but i ve heard ppl say using the right oil and it drives like a normal diff. pffft.

the old 3 point turn in a narrow street will suck, and so will driving up a 10 story carpark

im running kaaz oil in my 2way. its farkn harsh for the street, and i imagine 1.5 would only be a little better.......... but i ve heard ppl say using the right oil and it drives like a normal diff. pffft.

the old 3 point turn in a narrow street will suck, and so will driving up a 10 story carpark

Well i've had my diff if for a day or so now, it is ssssoooo chattery >_< , when turning feels like I’m actually losing speed, you can feel it through the whole car. I hope it's not like this forever. I have to go up a 6 story car park i could her the diff echoing off the cars.

Sorry to sound like an absolute no-brainer but could someone give me a paragraph or two on how a diff works and what makes it good? I've been told to invest in one but have no idea about them so I need to do some research first.

Thanks guys!

Well i've had my diff if for a day or so now, it is ssssoooo chattery :yes: , when turning feels like I’m actually losing speed, you can feel it through the whole car. I hope it's not like this forever. I have to go up a 6 story car park i could her the diff echoing off the cars.

hahaha yea thats what im talking about.... there are the good points, then there are the bad points. for everyday use its just unneccessary. some ppl get used to it, but i aint no drift bunny so im not really gonna use it to its full potential, so i actually just put mine up for sale!

Yeah I’m willing to give it a little more time I spent to much money to not give it a go. Anyway I can’t stand single any longer. You also had a 2 way which in my opinion is not really practical for every day.

Give it 1000 klms, then change the oil for the best Castrol Diff oil.

the sound will decrease markedly.

then give it another 1000 klms, change oil again, less sound.

Mine is GREAT now.

I've changed oil twice.

I'm assuming both the kaaz and tomei should be pretty similiar in nature then?

Being chattery, unfriendly to drive daily?

HRthirtyone and the97skyline, can you guys elaborate on some annoying daily situations?

I drive my R32 with twin plate carbon ATS clutch. I find it actually very streetable. With a 2 way, do you guys find it fustrating driving in parking lots, or driving up hill in intersections turning while in the rain?? :yucky:

Thanks guys!

This info really helps me out choosing a correct lsd for my application

Edited by 604cefiro
I'm assuming both the kaaz and tomei should be pretty similiar in nature then?

Being chattery, unfriendly to drive daily?

HRthirtyone and the97skyline, can you guys elaborate on some annoying daily situations?

I drive my R32 with twin plate carbon ATS clutch. I find it actually very streetable. With a 2 way, do you guys find it fustrating driving in parking lots, or driving up hill in intersections turning while in the rain?? :wub:

Thanks guys!

This info really helps me out choosing a correct lsd for my application

I’d say yeah they are very similar. I only have a 1.5 way but am still in the running in process. But at this stage I have only done like 200 K with it in. So its still very chattery, its realy loud when going up the 6 story carpark and the chattering can be felt through the car.

This is the worst it’s been as it’s a very tight car park and always having to be on the throttle. But cruising around its not that bad as bass said now his diff is very smooth and by the sound of it his done over 2000k in it.

Once the running in process is done and its done a few thousand k’s I think mine will be sweet.

Look the chattering is not present but it’s a part of buy an brand new Kaaz LSD anyway. I’ve excepted it now and can’t wait to really enjoy it on track, drift, skit pan days. >_< Hahahahaha Hope this helps

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...