Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, has bought his S15.

The GTR is making 256kw at all four on 14psi. However its still running standard turbo's. Can anyone confirm? I thought maybe it would be 256Rear wheels rather than all wheel.

Thats a lot of power with standard turbo's for the boost level?

Edited by Brett_A

also from what i read, the best he did quarter mile is a 12.61(with a soft launch), i though it woulda went harder than that with 20K put into it even with a soft launch...... anyway car look swell looked after.

just get sum1 u trust to check the vehicle mechanically and for any crash history or repairs. always helps to have piece of mind, no matter who u are buying off.

20K goes along way with a RB26 and yet it still only makes 265kw??

Where did the rest of the money go? :)

Maybe he's holding back the real power figures?........go the GTR!! :laugh:

you do realise that power is not an indication of how good or reliable a car is right?

supporting mods wont make more power, but will make it more reliable. ie. sump extension, etc etc.

IT has bigger injectors, pump, cams and cam gears, power fc, new intercooler, full 3" exhaust from turbo back. It also has newer standard turbo's.

I myself couldnt see 20 000 right there either, but then again I dont know much about GTR's.

Which is why I thought I would ask you guys.

Edited by Brett_A
you do realise that power is not an indication of how good or reliable a car is right?

supporting mods wont make more power, but will make it more reliable. ie. sump extension, etc etc.

This engine was built using about $18000, it makes a lot more than 265kw and is has the strength and reliability to support it. So when it comes to reliability versus power, I think I realise more than most mate.

Hiiiiiiiiiiyooooooooo ;)

post-16592-1151137920.jpg

If he has spent $20000 on this GTR then I'd say he would have reciepts for where it went so just get him to take you through exactly what he's done to the car and that it has the right modification plates to go with it.

thats a slug power fighure for a gtr .. i only spent 8grand on new turbos n exhust i got 300kw at all wheels .. im sure his either not sure or hypin or maybe did a major engine rebuild mine cost 15grand on its on to rebuild

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...