Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

reading this wants me to put a 26 in, just bringing up the old thread. just wondering whats the cost of getting to engine in??

ALOT.

You need to be handy with a Tig welder and air hacksaw as well just to mod the sump. Then youll want to freshen up the motor, need a 25 gearbox, a decent clutch, custom tail shaft, new cooler piping, etc, etc, etc. Also if you cant do it yourself (or have good mates) the labour is going to kill you as well.

Steve

As i have mentioned a few times i have kept the rb20 gearbox and im not having any problems as of yet. You will need a much better clutch though. dunno about the custom tailshaft. i kept my gtst one. What also make sit expensive is you start to think "While im at it" then you start doin computer upgrade etc. etc. I put aside $7000 for the conversion but spent closer to $9000

If i had a re-do i would have used an rb25 and spent the extra cash on a better turbo

I went for a 34 gt-t box and hks twin plate. Being a bigger box the shaft had to be shortened. I also went for a pair of 2530s, and a powerfc, as well as afm upgrades, nismo injectors, etc. Total cost has blown well out now but :domokun:

Im making about 310 rwhp at the moment. stock turbos running 11 pound i think. Its gotta go for another tune yet though hopefully get some more out of it.

masters where you talking 300hp or 300kw?

Awesome. Should be a unique ride. Is it gonna be a sleeper or are you doing it up?

what ecu you gonna run?

It will be set up for track work .. Ordered PFC D jetro

Flash89 you can make a comfortable 300 on the stock GTR turbos. Id recomend you just get a RB25 if your on a budget.

DISTURBD you going big single?

No big single , after doing the Dutton with the 25neo 31 we decided we needed that little bit of xtra grunt so building whole new car for next yr

  • 2 weeks later...

Dont need to do steering rack, im just fussy.

Dude, there is enuf info in this topic to write an essay on the conversion. Read up, get some serious cash together, and get on it.

If its too much, RB25's are cheap, put one of those in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...