Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had to put some rear brake shoes on my 240K last weekend,

I replaced then the same way they were originally placed,

But I'm not sure if this is the correct orientation,

ie swap the two shoes around (leading / trailing)

It's the Left side in these picture

The setup in your pictures matches the "Gregorys" 240K w/shop manual. Leading shoe friction material starts lower down the shoe and ends closer to the wheel cylinder.

Jim.

The setup in your pictures matches the "Gregorys" 240K w/shop manual. Leading shoe friction material starts lower down the shoe and ends closer to the wheel cylinder.

Jim.

Correct,

But after talking to an automotive teacher where I work, the leading shoe is the right hand shoe, so the shoes are the wrong way around, leading right side, trailing left side.

these pictures are for the left brake, forward direction is anti-clock wise

OK. Out of interest, ask him if the position of the wheel cylinder , acting on either the top or the bottom of the shoes is a factor. I wondered as I checked a few different pics and diagrams. Unfortunately few described the direction of the view (left or right hand side of car) but the position of the wheel cylinder appeared to effect which shoe was the primary!

Just looking at a brake theory book (old!) the servo, and slight rotation action of the shoes described would seem to suggest the picture in the Gregorys (and your pictured setup) is correct!

I'm still trying to make sense of this and the different position of the wheel cylinder is the only thing that comes close to explaining it!

Anyone clear on drum brake theory? Now I'm curious :(

OK. Out of interest, ask him if the position of the wheel cylinder , acting on either the top or the bottom of the shoes is a factor. I wondered as I checked a few different pics and diagrams. Unfortunately few described the direction of the view (left or right hand side of car) but the position of the wheel cylinder appeared to effect which shoe was the primary!

Just looking at a brake theory book (old!) the servo, and slight rotation action of the shoes described would seem to suggest the picture in the Gregorys (and your pictured setup) is correct!

I'm still trying to make sense of this and the different position of the wheel cylinder is the only thing that comes close to explaining it!

Anyone clear on drum brake theory? Now I'm curious :dry:

Correct the placement of the wheel cylinder (stopping pin, or what ever it’s called) does make a difference,

The way he explained it to me was,

The leading shoe is the one that pushed against the pin when the break is applied, in this picture the right shoe would try to rotate anti-clockwise and push against the pin, leading shoe.

post-13098-1151622760.jpg

Edited by noddle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...