Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here you are buddy!!!

Sorry, my car is a bit dirty. i took my camera to work so i could take some pics for everyone on my lunch break.

Ahhhh pics work.

gallery_8635_338_21250.jpg

Seats

gallery_8635_338_19172.jpg

Driver Door

gallery_8635_338_20510.jpg

Inside

gallery_8635_338_22382.jpg

Engine Bay 1

gallery_8635_338_59181.jpg

Engine Bay 2

gallery_8635_338_4700.jpg

Engine Bay 3

gallery_8635_338_68278.jpg

Outside 1

gallery_8635_338_16855.jpg

Outside 2

gallery_8635_338_42474.jpg

Outside 3

gallery_8635_338_61774.jpg

Outside 4

gallery_8635_338_27750.jpg

Jap Rego sticker (I left it on coz i thought it looked cool)

gallery_8635_338_18256.jpg

Model Number

gallery_8635_338_33713.jpg

Compliance Plate

gallery_8635_338_17980.jpg

Another Engine Pic 1

gallery_8635_338_6065.jpg

Another Engine Pic 2

gallery_8635_338_63177.jpg

Another Inside Pic 1

gallery_8635_338_35367.jpg

Another Inside Pic 2

gallery_8635_338_54222.jpg

Sick Stock Gauges

gallery_8635_338_46295.jpg

LOOK!!!! Air Vent is NOT Broken!!!!!!

gallery_8635_338_34436.jpg

Another UNBROKEN Air Vent!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124038-swapped/page/2/#findComment-2377894
Share on other sites

can you put the back seat in?

I have a sil with rb20, i'm selling for $15000. interested?

minor mods, rego till Jan 07

i'd like to have the GTR with the extra mods. (fittd or non fited i dont mind)

http://redlineau.com/forum/modules.php?ful...=view_photo.php

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124038-swapped/page/2/#findComment-2387929
Share on other sites

I need the back seat put back in.

With extra parts put in the boot $4000

With extra parts fitted and original in boot $5000

My car, aesthetics as seen in photo, FMIC, AVCR, Turbo from RB25 ser. II, 3” mandrel bent exhausts from turbo out. HKS SSQ BOV, GReddy pod Filter, High Flow Fuel pump, Malpassie Fuel Reg, Power FC with Hand Controller (AP Engineering), Earthing Kit, Timing belt and pullies replaced recently (genuine Nissan parts, 5000km ago), Serviced every 5000kms with mobile 1 product only, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Nismo Shocks and Springs. Upgraded LSD, Skyline Breaks all round (from NA 33 considerable better stopping power).

Rego till end of Jan and has current RWC.

So what do you think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124038-swapped/page/2/#findComment-2391837
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...