Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

driving to work yesterday and went to put the drivers window up and it just didn't want to go. this has happened a bit lately and normally i just hit the door trim and it goes up. this time, though, it didn't. i've removed the trim and tried to help it up. put a bit of wd40 on the tracks but still no. when i push the button for it to go up, the regulator ticks but nothing happens. is it common for r33 s1 regulators to go or even the motor? got quoted $120 for the regulator and $295 for the motor assembly. was expecting about $50 for the regulator. anyone got one for sale? what do you think i should do?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124561-drivers-window-wont-go-up/
Share on other sites

Might be worth pulling it apart. Does the window go down still?

My passenger window would go up but not down, but the drivers side controls worked fine with it. I opened up the switch and the contacts just needed cleaning. I'm pretty sure they run a fair bit of current through them so they tend to arc and corrode over.

I had a similar problem with mine, hit the regulator and it went up. I pulled it apart, checked out the circuit baord and sure enough there were dry soldered joints. Have a look over the circuit board, you will see terminals coming through it that the solder has let go of. There will be a ring around the terminal where the solder isnt touching. Get a small soldering iron, put a drop of solder on it and all is good. Let me know how you get on.

Ken

ken, you are the man.

you just saved me between $120 and $160 for a 2nd hand one. that was the problem exactly. the hardest part was pulling it apart. took me about 5 mins all up to fix, and that included warming up the soldering iron. very easy to do. should've taken photos and turned it in to a tutorial. sounds like a common problem. thanks heaps for the help mate

Craig

ken, you are the man.

you just saved me between $120 and $160 for a 2nd hand one. that was the problem exactly. the hardest part was pulling it apart. took me about 5 mins all up to fix, and that included warming up the soldering iron. very easy to do. should've taken photos and turned it in to a tutorial. sounds like a common problem. thanks heaps for the help mate

Craig

No sweat, glad to help out.

on my s2 96 gts4 my drivers window is a bit wobbly but it goes up and down okay. however, on the passenger side it goes down ok but struggles on its way up it also makes a slightly louder noise? any suggestions what it could be

Same deal by the sounds.

Myself and a mate worked on his 32 with the same problem...open up the circuit board, find the related areas to the window respectively, and check for corrosion and rust. If so, cut it off, burn up some new solder and drip her on. Make sure there is oodles of power going to it aswell. if these things are ok, theyll shoot up and down in a jiffy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
    • Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around without a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
×
×
  • Create New...